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Just had the joy of stripping this down as it went full auto when testing it prior to posting as it was provisionally sold. One faulty trigger micro switch I’d the culprit. Whilst it’s open I’ll replace with a Tokyo marui hop rubber and hope that when the new microswitch arrives and I put it back together it’s one that will only need to be reopened once in a blue moon. if you have had the pleasure of servicing a cyma/Tm m14 then this is even more fun.

Like all memes some truth in it, just a magnet and a micro switch but it’s on the outside not in the feeding area. It’s actually less of a problem than the trigger microswitch wire routing which is a going to be a joy to replicate on the new one (I don’t think)

Liking the shottie holster! Finally with Christmas play time managed to finish what I’m calling an AK105-VSU. Tried and hopefully succeeded in painting it in such a way it works with both the GZ and RG load outs ?

I regularly refer people to the following diagram and i myself follow it not just for pistols by GBBRs too. As for OP, yeah most metal in airsoft is cheap Chinesium (POT) metal cast from moldings, only CNC'd parts are better but incredibly expensive. And there is much to be desired for the finishes in airsoft, TM cerakoating there MWS was an excellent move on the half. Also I own two TM M9s, one is a TM M92FS which was my first TM pistol (and my conversion to TM) and the TM Albert .W Model P01 (TM M9A1 with Resident Evil Blue Umbrella trades) love them both and whilst i still own my original TM M92FS i mostly use the Albert one. Ill never forget the day i tried my TM M92FS at my first skirmish, up till then i had used WE because "METAL SLIDE" ? and was mostly just expecting the same shit range and accuracy. To see the TM M92FS shoot and the BB just going, and going and going in a straight line until i could no longer see it made me go "WOW, what is the magic in this?" ?

Not only are almost all metal airsoft guns made of shit metals, the surfaces finishes are generally really shit paints and from what I've seen over the years that seems to apply even more so to the pistols than the rifles. Actual kydex is nails as plastics go and it'll eat airsoft grade paints all day, especially those used on anything Nuprol rebrands and all the other super common metal guns out there. You can also damage TM plastic if you've got a tight kydex holster, but it'd have to be mega tight and abrasive to do anything more than aesthetic wear (and you'd have to do a shit ton of draws).

First game day of 2022 and it was pretty damn good. VSR is now shooting well enough where I can upgrade my claims on it from "it has an effective range of 75m" to "it has an effective range of 85m". Took it to the range when no one was there, deployed the bipod and started plinking to zero the scope for the day. Was hitting the 75m target every time (they're metal and make a very audible dink when hit), so I decided to try for the 85m target. Aimed and fired and there was that satisfying dink. Shot again, another dink. Again? Another dink. Literally hitting the target, which is about half man-size, every single shot without me having to tilt the rifle; just put the crosshair on it, pull the trigger and watch the BB sail towards it. Was so happy and then took it out into the game and got so many kills with it. The ghillie continues to work flawlessly and I'm really loving it. Felt bad because someone crept around the outskirts of the site on a massive flank that took a looooong time, then walked right past me and got mk23'd in the back. He then came back along a path I was watching and was victim to about an 80m shot. Good day for sure! However, it started absolutely tipping it down after lunch so now I have to dry my ghillie, rifle wrap, take apart my mk23 so it can dry out. I think the VSR is fine as I stopped playing pretty soon after it started raining, but I'll probably stand it up with the bolt open so it can get some air through it anyway. And no, I didn't stop because "oh no, it's raining!" I stopped because my thumb cuticle got caught in the bipod when I was deploying it and it tore away about a 2cm square of skin from my thumb and started bleeding profusely. I stayed where I was for the time being and got a few kills, taking off my fingerless glove and clenching my thumb into it, but as soon as I had to move from my hide I called it a day because I couldn't properly use my rifle one-handed. It's fine when the bipod is deployed and I'm watching an area, but having to move, maybe take a shot or two, re-deploy... Not doing that one-handed. Oh, I also needed to get a plaster on it Roll on the next game day!

unless they don't make it I always go TM for pistols

This might make someone chuckle, it's from my local sites Christmas game back on the 19th December which was a bloody cold day and is out in the country, where I played with my 12 year old son and his two cousins (12 and 14). The sun had just set at 4 pm and we all played one final game, marshals vs all other players, and the last player standing wins a free game day. Lasted about 20 minutes and the marshals shout "Game Over", so back to the safe zone, and then off to the raffle that had loads of good prizes with each of the four of us having tickets. Half way through the raffle, so about 20 minutes after game over, I notice that my son and his younger cousin still aren't at the raffle so call their phones, no answer, where the hell are they? The youngest cousin's ticket then wins an £80 Nuprol shotgun, but there's no sign of them, the marshals wait as long as they can but have to re-draw the ticket and give it to someone else. All very odd so a marshal goes off looking for them. About 40 minutes later they were both found hiding under a bush, freezing cold in the pitch black, thinking the game was still on! ?

Yep 70s don't deform as easily as 50s and 60s, give much better results in full auto fire than the softer counterparts. 50s are way too soft even at 1J.

@RostokMcSpoons you've put it together already but check the air vents of the piston head, make sure they are clear. It's easy to over-lube and block resulting in the oring being able to push out.

I have some experience using revolvers for competition use. the Dan Wesson are very hit and miss, it’s only worth getting one with the adjustable hop even when they work you tend to find that as already stated single action is usually better than double as the cylinder lines up more regularly than when double auctioned via the trigger. i usually get a random flyer in every cylinder regardless of how I shoot it. (It’s not the same chamber or cartridge every time). make sure if you are purchasing new you get the moonclip ready cylinder as this provides another loading option as the quick loader slightly fouls on the body of the gun when the gate is swung out so if you prefer loading with moon clips you are sorted. they are pretty consistent and with adjustable hop they are not bad at all, my hop rubber did look like it was covered in candle wax though and a good clean transformed the range. the 715 is the better system with the forward opening lever but the choice is yours

IT'S ALIVE (Thanks feck for that!) Now my problem is that it's running a little on the spicy side! 360-370fps with 0.20g. The hop unit doesn't appear to impinge much on the barrel, even when fully on, so hop adjustment might not be enough to tame the beast I have created. I may have to get an M95 and fit that. But the motor seems to be running smoothly, and snappily, even on the half-charged NimH 1600mAH 8.4v I've been testing with. When I slap on a Mosfet and plug in the 11.1v Li-Po it should be awesome I have had one jam in the barrel, hopefully that's just down to the crappy 0.20g BB's I'm using

just match to the battery then. tamiya connectors can be weird in airsoft, they tend to be wired reverse to RC batteries so it's not a given that the colours match. presumably for the same reason as the eclectic wire colouring- because electrical engineers are a strange bunch. as long as you keep track in your mind (write it down if needs be) which goes where then that'll do the job. if the motor runs backwards just swap the wires over problem solved. you could try swapping the o rings over, see if that does it, there's other tricks like stretching the o rings or swapping them out for one slightly oversize. that's an alu head isn't it? i know some of the plastic mushroom heads have issues with the texture of the plastic giving a poor seal but the alu one shouldn't. never needed to cut a window and the only box i've had the luxury of viewing the motor mesh is the open bottomed a&k mg boxes, which funnily enough are awful for accumulating dirt+crap in them. start by getting the idler and sector shimmed down as far as they'll go (working on the left hand half of the box) and such that they're running free even when the box is tightened up and tilted all different directions. that'll give you the most wiggle room on the bevel to go up/down as needed, then shim that as above (so you know your starting point of say 1mm total, then you can swap shims from one side to the other to move it up and down) you can try the bevel in the right half with the motor cage in position to give a very rough starting point, then it's just try it, adjust, try it again. running the motor with just the gears can give an idea of how much noise there is, how smooth everything is sounding etc. once you've got the bevel height where you want it, check how much overlap there is between the pinion and the idler and if necessary raise the idler/sector just to keep a decent overlap (ie that you're not driving on only half the teeth)

I bit the bullet yesterday, an e-mail from BBGUNS4LESS offering me 5% off of my unplaced order / basket triggered it, and a Double Eagle M908A is now on the way to be setup as a DMR. In the UK right now there are only two retailers left with it in stock, BBGUNS4LESS and High Pressure Airsoft, which is a little frustrating considering that TaiwanGun has the entire M90X range in stock. I'm not a speedyboi, and enjoy hanging back a bit and playing support, so I've wanted something to use as a DMR for quite a few months and the M908A fits the bill for me. A few things that swung it for me are the longer battery cable (I use a GATE deans extension cable in my M904E), a metal receiver with only one selector so I can drill and tap a hole in it to screw in a bolt for mechanically locking it to semi-only (not everywhere will allow a DMR's MOSFET just to be set to single shot on all modes), quick change spring, the rip off GATE Titan so that in the future I know for certain I could swap in a genuine Titan easily if I wanted to, and I've taken apart my M904E's gearbox multiple times now so I'm happy to do this and the M908A's will be identical. I won't initially be doing anything major to it, but may have to if the stock piston gets chewed up (the stock rack is part metal teeth with the rest plastic, we'll see what happens), and will stick with the stock 385mm inner barrel but will swap in a Maple Leaf Macaron 70 degree + omega nub + Gearparts M120 spring (with an M130 bought as well just in-case). The stock DE piston head and spring guide both have bearings, so I'm thinking this will compress the M120 spring more than usual and get me close to my primary sites 420 FPS DMR limit. I'm going to start with 0.30g BBs, so that's why I'm using the 70 degree bucking and omega nub, and this should hop them happily. My only concerns are that my eyesight isn't what it used to be, so I'll play one game with it and may invest in a flip-to-side magnifier (nothing too cheap, but still a clone) if I do get good range, and also that the stock motor may not have enough torque to do the job (and if not it's then do I go with a brushed high-torque or a Warhead Base motor).

Ah, that's it, right enough. The H is the 7.62 big boy with the squarer mag.

Thanks for the vote of confidence @Tactical Pith Helmet, although it remains to be seen if it all doesn't fall apart on its first skirmish or is a nightmare to run about in... time will tell. @Shamal I don't even know my own strength at times... pure space marine beefcake. Oo-rah! For the eagle-eyed among you, you'll notice the shoulders are a bit squint. That was a snafu that only got picked up after I'd glued it all together. D'oh! The glue seams are very visible but it'll all be painted over anyway. Still, that black and OD look doesn't look half bad. Choices choices...

Wow! Bet that checker plate took some bending! ? Regards

That's the scar-L variant, so it takes m4 mags as standard, it's the scar-H that takes the larger non-m4 mags

Forgive my stupidity but do SCAR-Ls not use STANAG mags anyway? So no need for an adaptor. Cool gnu.

That's brilliant.

it's a cyma so its fine but its an old design so bog standard v2 gearbox you are paying for the trades.

A bear walks into a bar. 'Whisky and...........................................................................................soda please,' he tells the barman. 'What's with the massive pause?' the barman asks. 'Dunno,' says the bear, 'I was born with them.'

Happy New Year everyone. Hope the hangovers etc are mostly healed now. Almost done with the armour, finished the shin guards and added neck protection. Purchased a couple of Viper pouches for mags. Considering some added detail on the back and trying to think of something to cover hips/bum/bits as its all looking a bit exposed so far. Decided to do a mockup to see what it all looked like... hmm interesting, kind of a psychotic mishmash of Master Chief, Doomguy, Armored Core and the Inquisitor from Red Dwarf... Eezer G

I have a TM416D and I've left the power totally stock. The difference in effective range between 0.7J (which is stock TM guns) and 1.1J is miniscule and TMs are generally built super nicely. You generally don't have to touch TMs, they fire brilliantly out of the box. I run mine at the stock 0.7J power and put .28s in it. Shoots wonderfully.

The Egyptian ambassador is really spoiling us.

Hi all. If anyone on here is interested I've just heard that the British museum has recently taken delivery of a new exhibit. It's an Egyptian mummy but instead of the usual mummification process this one was covered in chocolate and crushed nuts. They have called it Pharaoh Rochè....?? Regards

Not sure if this will help anyone as it is a old thread. this “issue” is not unique to umarex/VFC GLOCKS, in fact it can happens on any GBB that has a similar rocket valve system. what happens is when a bb is in the chamber, the back pressure from the BB is pushing back the rocket valve too much that it won’t cycle the slide enough the load the next round, and when the hop is empty, there is no back pressure, it will cycle properly and load the next round. That’s why it only fires every other round. so the solution is to release more gas to create enough pressure to cycle the slide and overcome the back pressure. 1. Stronger gas 2. stronger hammer spring 3. trim the rocket valve spring coil by coil. 4. My personal favorite, unscrew the release valve on your mag to just before it starts leaking. and on umarex Glocks, what you can do is just use WE mag( but with TM or VFC gas router). or use WE release valve on the original mag. hope this helps someone.

no worries their bud , it does ! ?

Good luck with your build, will be chomping my popcorn on the side-lines, watching with great interest! As my CA M15A3 shoots best on semi-auto and has a stupidly long barrel, I might go the DMR route too, though it won't be easy as the DE with the lovely quick change spring system. I've fancied the idea of one of the magnifiers too... but from what I've read you have to be careful to find one that has a decent hinge so it stays up / down as required. So I thought a low power zoom scope might be a safer bet.

Thanks to you both for the replies. I thought about the cerakote solution, but then the price brought me down to earth. It's a lot of money to spend on a pot metal gun. More than the price of the gun itself. I find myself being drawn back to TM black plastic.

2021 was the year I went 90% green...gas. MWS first, followed by a TM MP7. The MP7 is putting .3s out to 50m no problem, at about 1.1js. Really good fun and don't worry about the ammo limit. Just pick your shots and learn how to reload quickly!

Your CM16 LMG is in the 350fps AEG category so yeah, 50 degree would be the one to use.

If anything the whole thing is under lubed at the moment. I'll do a bit of test shooting with it then I'll take it apart again to apply some better grease. I could swap the piston over (I'm using the old one as I didn't have to worry about engagement) to see how that affects muzzle velocity as I've obviously got some excess to spare (rather than swapping the spring) Edit: I've wound out the 'quick fps adjuster' screw in the spring guide and I'm getting down to 345-355fps with some hop applied, so maybe the spring is alright as-is, but I've ordered two lots of silicon grease (one for the gears, one for the piston) from good ol' AK2M4 so I'll still be opening it up again anyway. I'm no longer filled with fear by the internals of an airsoft gun. This must be a good thing (Or a bad thing for my bank balance, as I'll be prepared to change more stuff!) It's firing at a healthy 14.3 rps with the Titan 7.4v Li-Ion. I've definitely got a double-feed issue on full auto with my old Classic Army STANAG mag, which is the one I've been filling with the 0.20g BBs for all my chrono testing. I've twice (in the space of a couple of hundred shots) had the barrel end up with several BBs inside. That's a sub-optimal scenario right there. I've only fired a few bursts through the gun with the supplied hi cap and one of my other STANAGs, they seemed ok so it might just be finicky with the mags, but I'm really going to need to 'let loose' to see how much of an issue there is. Edit2: Pinged a good few rounds on full auto with the provided hi cap mag, no problems with that one at least!

I like to keep it handy, cocks, for close encounters. Edit: also, dope guns.

With 0.25g? That would be 1.07J which is pretty decent. You could eke a little more out of it. If you mean with 0.2g then that's just 0.85J and I'd try and get more out of it, first by optimising the air seal, then thinking about the spring. Er, if you know about it, why is the site continuing to let it happen, or why still play there?

So I found a crack in the upper receiver of my G&G Predator. New upper fitted and now rocking a sort of two tone black upper and rail, with worn camo lower and stock. Quite like it

So you said, but you didn't say whether you'd cleaned the barrel, silicone greased the air-seal components and/or adjusted what appears to be an adjustable hop unit. This isn't Facebook.

My collection of Asian replicas. Just got the k2 today.

The have a nice rotary hop unit as standard, so you may get a tiny bit more with a better hop rubber and nub. Do you know what it chronos at?

You could always use the Rebuild Progress and Achievements function, this would start a re-count of all members stats and badges based on the settings you have defined in the ACP for a community this large that would likely take the system 14 days to complete but its a passive background operation so it wont harm or take down the community board. This might bring justice for the long standing members since it will re-count their entire posting history.

I excitedly opened my present on Christmas morning, the sheer delight when I saw the Gibson logo on the box, but when I finally got to opening it, it was empty. "What the fuck? " I yelled. "You like it? " shouted my wife. "I got you your own Gibson air guitar, now you can really rock out. "

aye that's the one. if you're gonna go optical in the long run then not much point going with the wired options short-term then as they'll end up redundant. not really sure about the perun vs gate thing, never really ran any of the perun options although they seem to be relatively popular.

I can think of a couple of reasons for why he taped the grip: He's been watching too many gangsta films Its previously been broken He's no Ronnie Pickering

Its within sentencing guidelines and higher than the minimum sentence, so not a soft touch. He had previous convictions - but did they have any relevance? If not then they cannot be taken into account in this sentencing. He plead guilty, and was therefore eligible for a reduction in sentence (but not less than minimum) Firearms – Possession with intent to cause fear of violence – Sentencing (sentencingcouncil.org.uk) From the sentencing guidelines, I would place 'culpability' in category c, and 'harm' in category 3. A – High culpability: Intention falling just short of intent to endanger life Conduct intended to maximise fear or distress (Intent to cause fear/distress, but not maximise) Sophisticated nature of offence/significant planning Leading role where offending is part of a group activity Firearm or imitation firearm discharged Prolonged incident06 B – Medium culpability: Firearm or imitation firearm loaded or held with compatible ammunition but not discharged (Pellets were found with the gun at home, but no confirmation of whether or not it was loaded during the inc0icent) Significant role where offending is part of a group activity Some degree of planning Other cases falling between culpability A and C because: Factors are present in A and C which balance each other out and/or The offender’s culpability falls between the factors as described in A and C C – Lower culpability: No intention to cause injury to persons ( I can believe that there was no intent to cause injury, just to threaten - produced a BB gun, an air weapon, and placed it to the window and made threats to the complainant, causing him some concern.") Lesser role where offending is part of group activity Little or no planning or unsophisticated offending (it was certainly unsophisticated) Firearm or imitation firearm not produced or visible Conduct limited in scope and duration (From the report I would assume this was short with Walker showing the pistol then continuing his manoeuvre to drive out of the jam) Category 1 Severe physical harm caused Severe psychological harm caused Category 2 Serious physical harm caused Serious psychological harm caused High risk of death or severe physical or psychological harm High risk of serious disorder Category 3 Alarm/distress caused made threats to the complainant, causing him some concern." All other cases not falling into 1 or 2 So with C3 and referencing table 2 for an imitation firearm I would be coming up with a 'medium community order' or between 6 months and 1 year. Possibly increase it if previous convictions are relevant and reduce a percentage for the guilty plea. The judge was more severe than me, perhaps treating it as loaded for B3, starting at 18 months and reducing to 16 months due to the guilty plea

Hmm. The only thing I can think of would be to black-ball individuals from UKARA and the equivalent schemes. Remember that it's sellers that need a defence, not purchasers. It's perfectly legal to purchase a RIF and possess it (in private) without any defence or reason beyond "want one". Public possession needs a reasonable excuse, the proof whereof lies with the possessor on a case-by-case basis. There's no defence, or licence, or anything that can be issued and revoked. Any change to the legality of sale, purchase or possession would require further legislation, and it's unlikely to be in our favour. I expect we will move to a licensing scheme eventually for purchase and private possession, for all the good that will do.

So I think that once the December paycheck hits one of these will be a present for myself! Cheers for the feedback people!

I was surprised to discover that a TM MP7 is perfectly capable of holding its own in woodland as well as urban/CQB. 6 mags and a 6.03mm inner barrel/ML bucking and they shoot miles with green gas and heavier bb’s. Get one, you won’t regret it.

certainly it wouldn't be enough to warrant the risks associated with opening the thing up with limited teching experience. first rule of teching is make sure you have a reliable backup gun before you start messing with it. in the early stages the money would be better spent on other accessories. for example i'd find a bunch of midcaps and an odin (with adapter) would increase enjoyment more than putting the money into making the gun shoot a bit better. but then i really, really hate hicaps.....

The usual technical objection that with sufficient hop up, more energy does mean more maximum range. But I agree that consistency is much more important or else you'll be lobbing BBs 5m further but hitting everything except what you're aiming at.