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My obese parrot just died ? I’m distraught, but it’s a huge weight off my shoulders. Regards

should be interchangeable with classic army collapsing stocks

Thanks for all your help lads, I have managed to solve the problem I stripped the whole thing down looks like it could have been what looks like greased too much, so I cleaned it up a bit keeping the working parts lubed and if like magic it's now working like a dream, thanks again for your input and your knowledge without that I'm stuffed cheers mick.

I was going to ask the same question as @Nick G Also, is the random firing single shot or bursts of auto?

When it stops , what does it do ? does it still 'fire' but no BB comes out ? does the trigger jam ? does it light strike as in you can feel the hammer 'click' but no gas vents from the mag ?

a dropped fps sounds very much an air seal issue. did you check the seal between the nozzle and the hop? if there's enough play for the hop to move forward/back then it can end up leaking there which would give a leak even if the box seems fine on a static test. one solution is the inclusion of a spring (or o-rings) to push the hop unit back tight to the gearbox.

it's a pretty common thing for different sights to have different levels of tinting to them, especially with the cheap replica stuff you get in airsoft. replica eotechs seem particularly prone to this. can't remember what brand mine was (i wanna say WE? although god knows who the oem was) didn't have as much tint as others i've seen, although the downside was that the reticle would be pretty easily washed out in bright daylight.

Winner winner chicken dinner ? Openly admits it's a copy, bidding starts at £400, & even his p&p is ridiculous ffs https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/165295817798?hash=item267c660446%3Ag%3Al1cAAOSwkYVh10qG&LH_Auction=1 Offered £15 with a salty msg, automatically rejected so fuck knows what he's set it at, so I pmd him instead lol

Though the video you posted states the fact that the ‘new rules’ are exactly how people should be driving anyway Don’t run over pedestrians Don’t crash into the vehicle in front Don’t make any manouvre that relies on the actions/inactions of others Drive defensively, pay attention and exercise hazard perception

When you want all the trademarks. TM NGRS Delta with essentially the full KOA package. I basically took their build list and send it to my tech for a good bit less. Still instantly became one of my most expensive guns.

New Video: Novritsch SSX303 Airsoft DMR Review With the Novritsch SSX303 Airsoft DMR being released over a year ago and with loads of hype surrounding it. I had to see if the Novritsch SSX303 lived up to all this hype or would it turn out to be s**t. In this review video you will hear my opinions on this Airsoft DMR / Assault gbb. Is it worth it ??

I'm sorry it came to that. Sadly it seems to be the way with him at the moment, but hopefully H2R4K will get some in soon.

Yeah the G&G M14 unit is perfectly fine. It might change your air seal characteristics but didn't seem to affect mine.

i mean o rings between the front of the hop (around the inner barrel) to push the hop unit back from the upper (and by the inverse push the upper forward from the hop unit) it's the same tactic you'd use in most guns to ensure the hop is tight to the box so you get a more consistent seal.

Awesome result ?

You're going to be a pinging aimed shots in semi-auto, your ammo usage will be so low compared to a normal day's spamming of 3-5 round bursts. It's got to be worth trying 0.36's And the cost of the BBs compared to your outlay (and whatever monetary value you could attach to 'disappointment') mean it's a price worth paying anyway

I picked up a battery from my local sites shop early on Saturday morning and was allowed to nip out onto the site for a few minutes to test the changes. So with the Maple Leaf 410mm AEG inner barrel, MR HOP 70 degree bucking, AK2M4 hard Omega Nub all in a ZCI plastic rotary hop unit grouping at a distance was much better with no veering to the left or right (the ZCI hop unit is admittedly not "high end", but it's of a noticeably higher quality than the stock DE one, especially the fitment of the arm). I know for certain now that I'll be more accurate at a good pinch point where I can be useful to team mates out to around 52 meters. However, beyond 50 or so meters results get a bit disappointing in that the hop doesn't seem to be consistent enough, however I genuinely think that my setup hop wise is about the best I can do as I'm using sound components carefully assembled. I'm wondering if I should be considering the weight of the BBs I'm using? I've started with 0.30g BBs, where I normally use 0.25g for my standard AEG, as I was wary of starting off at very heavy weights and also considering my favourite site has a 420 FPS DMR limit. I'm not really sure what weight I should have a try with, in that 0.32's are only a tiny bit more expensive but will they make any noticeable difference, and once onto 0.36 or 0.40 prices leap up a hell of a lot.

In the UK it would probably be the same as most other mid-ranged DE M4's, so I'd take a bet at £170 (although I've a horrible feeling that once the DE M900 range is back in stock everywhere in the UK prices are going to go up a little).

24 RPS @ 350fps ? IMG_1989.MOV Again mainly for the semi love, but a quick auto braappp is great for the odd ‘runner’

All Airsoft gas is Propane based but has been processed to remove most of the smell and has Silicone oil mixed with it. Going by power the list goes like this: 144a.........For NBB and TM plastic slide pistols. Green.......Most common general use gas Red...........Higher power for Winter use Black........Highest power for very cold Winter use Pure Propane can be used with an adaptor and is between Green and Red in pressure. It has no lubricant and stinks. Co2 is MUCH higher pressure than any bottled gas at around 800-900psi. (Green gas is around 300psi) Pistol must be designed to use Co2 for parts to be strong enough.

Of course it’s no good if your adverts get pulled, but I still stick to eBay - it gives access to the widest potential customers. I buy & sell random things, and take into account the auction fees when I buy and whether there is any margin left for me on what someone may be convinced to pay covering postage and eBay fees. If the numbers add up then I’ll go for it Even better is that I have access to space in some shops, and on trade stalls at shows - so if it’s a reasonable size, fits in with the type of people who may shop there then I’ll put it in a shop (and pay much less in fees, not have to worry about post etc) I’ve an account on Etsy and could sell some on there, but have not bothered to do so yet as eBay has sufficed and if it’s vintage and Etsy suitable then I’ve probably got another option via the shops & shows Theres also local ads & Facebook market place, but those mean dealing with local people. I could list and put it for collection from a shop, but still have to deal with the time wasters etc - I may as well just put it in the shop Selling things is a matter of finding a good route - your own site etc pretty much had your own rules but people have to find you, an online market place has its rules and it’s customers

don't really think there's a particular term for it, it's just a partial overspin. when the cutoff lever trips, and assuming there's no active braking from a mosfet, the motor just shuts off but the mass of the rotating parts, the gears etc are still spinning so they just keep rolling until something stops them, which will be a combination of natural friction, the strength of the magnets in the motor (eg a strong neodynium motor will slow down quicker) and, when it hits the piston again, the energy to pull back the spring. overspin usually isn't commented on unless you have a fast enough setup that it can not only pull the piston back a little, but all the way to roll over to a second shot (which is the double tap). as mentioned it's the same effect as you're intentionally trying to acheive if you're using a mosfet with precocking, which will run the motor intentionally a little longer so when it stops it's nearly all the way back, idea being the time between pulling the trigger and the shot actually firing is much shorter without the need to have a really fast motor/gear combo. it's genuinely nothing to worry about, indeed depending on the setup you actually want it to happen a little bit, as if you stopped the motor too quickly (eg by using active brake) then it can stop quick enough to have the cutoff lever still engaged and lockup the trigger.

It is called momentum. A moving object will not stop dead unless a brake is applied to it; it will come to a halt once it has been slowed sufficiently by friction or another form of resistance. It does not have a name in airsoft; it is just something that happens.

First AEG on the channel in a long time! Looks like a versatile and interesting little rifle...

I doubt you’ll get it from a hunting shop, it was designed for paintball markers, because of that it is exceptional for pneumatics, you don’t get seal ‘set’ when the gun is pressurised for a long time between shots, not that this happens in GBBRs but my point is it’s extremely slippery and doesn’t dry out or migrate into the bucking easily.

Just don’t buy maintenance gas It’s sopping with silicon oil I found that out the hard way ?

【CUSTOM GBB WORKSHOP】 HK Mk 23 Mod 0 USSOCOM kwa base deep marking, deep 0.3 mm cerakote Tritium night sight

That's not actually a holo sight, it's likely a chinesium red dot dressed up as an eotech. Given that a genuine eotech will set you back half a grand (give or take), for 30 odd quid you'd be lucky if that didn't lose its zero in a slight breeze. As for what to do about the reflection, not sure tbh, the reflective coating as far as I'm aware is intrinsic to the operation of the red dot.

It's the case with most optics and especially so in specific light conditions and indoors. Is this the case when you are playing outdoors or are you just trying indoors?

I see stuff like this and I think back in the day I(and I’m sure most of the guys I worked with) would have swapped my left bollock to get my hands on something like that ! looking at it my first thought is “just what you need” I look at a lot of modern kit and I do sometimes think it’s overly complicated or has too many ‘functions’ to it where as this design just screams at you “simple but effective” . As you may have noticed I’m impressed with it , very well done . .

Lol, prob didn't like my pm?

Yes, I've just done it with my 308. It foes require some cutting and additional/alternate parts, shot me a pm or make a new thread it's not a quick question thing.

Finally got where it wants to be I think. Custom rail and folding stock, pts stock and grip red light and tracer in the suppressor. Padded 5.11 sling and magpul 7.62 pulls

Pretty much complete, my basically scratch-built custom gun, the Orion: I'm getting a titan and dremelling the GB to fit it in there so I can get it over 35 RPS.

AGot a few stickers for my case, because why not. And a couple of patches because who doesn't like a bit of attempted self-aggrandising? Lol

I've not radiused it... I should have, but getting the shell back together with the spring I had was such a nightmare that that the plan is to swap to a better shell at a later date. Local rules are a bit lapse, it would be good if they had a rule like that, I've been hit a few times by people with DMRs that they seem to be able to fire about as quick as full auto on semi. If the button was on the MOSFET unit then you'd have to open the stock to get to it, so it's not like you could use it in game, and with a high torque motor and fairly gentle 16:1 gears it shouldn't struggle. I might give this a go as a trigger control training device. If that fails then maybe I'll buy a fancy MOSFET.

I have 2-3 plastic hop ups aswell,can try one and see what happens. You meant on very top(on picture #1 spot) or top of the feeding tube(picture #2spot)? As for wearing down mags,i've been using these same mags for 18 months already(last 9 of those months i've been having issue) so if anything they should have been broken in so far i guess ?

TechT gunsav for air seals - out of stock everywhere, let me know if you find some! And Parker Hale gun oil for metal on metal / trigger pack / charging handle / buffer spring. If you have HSB you’ll have Moly grease on your buffer spring.

Balystik regulator Been running one for years with no issues. Cheap and cheerful

Some shady guy.

They said it couldn't be done.... ('They' being the voices in my head) After a lot of prep work looking at the inside and outside of the handguard, and looking at various bits of RIS rail on sale (before settling on one of the simplest ones), I've finally managed to bodge engineer my stubby grip onto my F2000, as per my Battlefield 4 in-game loadout. (I couldn't find a tri-rail that I thought would look the same and that I could actually fit, so had to go for a single rail... but I still wanted the 'hanging off the front of the gun' look) I'm sort of blowing my own trumpet, perhaps a small one, such as the type often found in Christmas crackers... but it really isn't bodged, it feels absolutely damn solid. In fact it was so solid that after all the work I did carving out plastic and getting everything 'just so', it actually felt good-to-go without any of the screws and bolts and washers and plates I expected to put in. I put most of them in anyway and now I can pick up the gun by the front grip without any undue concern. I wouldn't want to fall on it, or do anything too drastic, but... very pleased with it. Inside the handguard are a couple of chunks of wood which help locate the RIS against some of the internal ribs which I cut / Dremel appropriately. They're screwed into the handguard. There's a bolt through the rail and the one of the chunks through to the top of the handguard. I actually just used a craft knife to remove most of the plastic, my cheapo Dremel looky-likey just didn't cut it. Ha ha. Ho ho... I'm here all week.

I hear they chuck you out once you reach 18...

Well, it took until v7 for all the various issues to be ironed out, but my ICS Galil Midcaps are done for now. They are designed to use PTS EPM springs and followers, as well as 5 M3x14 bolts, 5 M3x0.5 square nuts, the bottom screw and square nut from the high cap, and the spring/retainer arm from the high cap. This particular one holds 104 BBs. I will do a feeding test once I get my Galil back from the shop - should be at least two weeks. To be honest the surplus of bolts is a bit overkill and technically none are needed - the metal high cap shell provides plenty of compression strength and the sole bottom bolt/nut would technically hold the insert in place, but I have like 300 random M3 bolts and nuts from other projects, and this way mag insterts can be kept in one piece outside of the shell, for shipping or should a user ever want to switch back to a highcap.

I throw a perun ab++ (etu++ if you have the g&g etu in it) in it, get the precock running to sharpen the trigger response and I'd check you air seal. 300fps with an m115 unless you have a ported cylinder/short stroked gears I'd have expected more even with the short barrel.

They've also got a top forum like this one

It's ashame new players won't read this.