8.4v mini is the standard NiMh type battery most guns come with. They're cheap and easy to source for manufacturers and they'll do fine for most people. A 7.4v LiPo battery will give a higher current output which results in a better trigger response. This is a nice to have and by no means absolutely necessary as it does mean potentially having to buy a new charger. An 11.1v LiPo or indeed a 9.6v NiMh will give higher still current and may necessitate the fitting of a Mosfet to prevent damage to the trigger contacts.
If you want a cheap and easy upgrade to your performance then a 7.4v LiPo will do you no harm at all.
If the G&G mosfet os going to give you that much grief I'd get rid and install a better aftermarket one. I have a similar play style and I use a GATE Nano AB (newer versions available now - check their website). Not had any issues with it running on 7.4v LiPo.
Check out this FB page: https://www.facebook.com/RosesAndBoltshells?fref=ts and the RPF for WH40K builds. You can get LARP chainswords but they're not cheap!
Saturday is sold out, Sunday is almost sold out. It WILL be absolutely heaving.
Good luck with that. Might take a day off and go on the Friday though...
In general a Mosfet upgrade is only really worth it if you're planning on using LiPo batteries and in particular 11.1v LiPo batteries. Since the Mosfet fitted to these guns have problems running on 11.1v LiPos I would say get the Gen 2 (without the Mosfet) and spend the £50 you save on a decent aftermarket one instead.
To be fair we usually end up in mates 4x4 just because we all insist on taking so much gear with us it's the only car it fits in! I'm sure we don't actually need three assault rifles and a support weapon each but...y'know.
Not that foam.
Some goggles (like the ESS V12 for example) have a thin layer of foam over the vent holes to give some filtration and help prevent dust/sand ingress (particularly relevant in current deployments). However this can have an impact on the efficiency of the venting so many people (myself included) remove this thin layer of foam to increase airflow. It doesn't affect the face seal at all.
Strip it down for deffo.
Also - try soaking a paper towel/lint free rag in power spray and wrapping the offending part with it. That'll allow the liquid to come into long term contact with the part without having to spray the whole thing.
I'm confused as to how you can wind it up too hard. The winder has a clutch that disengages when it's fully would (goes click - you should hear it) so I'm guessing it must have already been malfunctioning. I've not had any issues with mine...
I recently bought a CYMA CM045A which is lovely but due to the need of a torch at the Malls I've bought the CYMA C114 RIS handguard for it. Thing is, there's no instructions whatsoever. Anyone got a clue how it goes together?
You know you don't need to cut anything to change the stock though, right? Para stocks are cheap on Ebay too but make sure you get the right one. Not sure that the G&P style ones fit quite the same. Looking at changing mine for a Mk46 stock.
The trigger on the A&K gearbox is a cheap microswitch that has a tendency to weld itself together resulting in full auto until the mag runs dry and the battery goes pop. Cheap and superior quality replacement from Maplins is the "V3 Anti Tamper" microswitch designed to go into home security systems to set off the alarm if someone removes the case without disarming the alarm first. Hence anti tamper switch.
Seems to have a bit of a personality disorder! Para M249 with a Mk2 stock? If it's an A&K you can replace the trigger switch with a V3 Anti Tamper switch from Maplins. Works a treat (you'll need to cut and bend the arm).