Cheeky vimto

New boots! Look at those pins! Ha

Haha, you've painted a brilliant picture there Ian.

Similar thing happened to me before. I no longer do the surrender/bang rule, I just shoot.

Live and learn, it's only money.

He used to be on here quiet a bit, spoke to him a few times. His article was pretty good; "Stuff your bang rule. Expect point blank kills and thrills when I'm around"

Just flipping through this months airsoft action magazine and I stumble across our very own Blackdeath. This man is everywhere, I'm sure I've seen him on the cover of a magazine before?

Lonex A1 with 13:1 gears, well worth it. Burst control is nice but can't you just tap your trigger on full auto? As I said earlier, hamsterfet was easy enough install and I think it was only £15. Glad yon sorted it anyway, That's what the forums are for!

Damaged wires?

Heeey!

Its a microswitch I think, try goggle it.

Just have a quick read of this; http://www.kingdomofairsoft.com/index.php?content_name=guides&sub_section=Microswitches Might be worth putting a mosfet in if your trigger is a micro switch, might save you doing all this again.

I'm having a look for you but I've never seen trigger switch like yours. I can't see how you trigger sits in it. Confused!

Mosfet are easy. It's youre basic 2 wires from battery plus a 3rd wire that goes on your trigger. I use hamsterfet, easy to set up and fairly cheap. Mosfet are only really needed if your planing on using lipo batteries. I put one on mine while I was upgrading for ROF and thought I might make the switch in batteries, I still haven't. Well done mate, looks like you sorted you gun out by yourself. You've just saved yourself some coin and also gained something money can't buy; experience.

I might have my old wire with a fuse on it if you want it. It's still fine, I just took it out when I stuck my mosfet in. Nice work on the motor testing, told you it'd be easier with 2 people

Stick with deans if you can.

Q Thats fine, definitely change the battery connectors! If you wanted to check the motor you could just connect the motor straight to the battery. Would be easier with two people as the motor spins pretty fast. To check the trigger, set up like the picture but split the gearbox. Use another wire and connect it to the two wires on the trigger. If the motor spins (maybe do it test after the motor test) it means the trigger needs replacing.

People always think they're kit is worth what they paid for it. I see it like buying a used car; there's always a Risk you'll drive a couple miles down the road and it breaks down. There's no guarantee he put the thing back together right when he tuned so no one can really say What it's worth. All my guns are used and ive gotten by fairly lucky so far, but there are horror stories out there. It's only worth what someone's willing to pay.

By-passed the trigger yet?

Nothing to do with the electrical side, but is that metal shavings under your bevel gear in the first picture?

I dont think it matters what way itt's wired up, it's just a switch. While the box is open you can run a test to see if it's the trigger. Connect the battery and motor and use a separate wire and link the two wires going into the trigger. If you're quick and hold the wire tight you shouldn't really get an arc. If your motor spins that means something is wrong with the trigger.

Sorry, my mistake! I've got deans and mini-Ts mixed up! I'm on deans not mini-T.

They are cheap enough. If you're ok with opening the box, take a picture of your trigger connectors.

I switched to mini-T's. Apparently they're a better connector but i didn't notice any differences. Remember if you change them, connect the plug side onto your gun and the socket on the battery. You don't want to set the battery down somewhere to find it shorting out!

Best way is to actually open the box. Do all the easiest stuff first if you're not comfortable opening your gear box. Make sure the battery is charged, check the wiring you can see, flip the motor as said previously. If you know how use a multimeter and have one you could check the voltage down the wiring to the motor. That way you'd Definitly know if it's the wiring or trigger and not your motor.

You can tell if it's a new motor easy without taking apart the gun. Just take it out the handle and reconnect it so its out the gun and try it. You can test the torque on it by lightly pushing it into soft wood and seeing if it chews the wood up, just make sure the teeth are cleaned before sticking it back in the gun. What do you mean fried the wires? Are you using the correct size wires or did you rewire it wrong and the wires hit the moving gears? Sounds like you've already had a go which is a good start. I'd say don't give up, these things aren't rocket science. If it's just replacing old with new, have faith, you can do it! And we're here to help