Moose87 Posted August 6, 2014 Posted August 6, 2014 My gearbox keeps locking back, i have taken it apart and put back together several times. it goes together fine and then when i try to fire it it just locks 3/4 of the way back with no explanation. i cant see anything wrong when i take the cover back off.
ak2m4 Posted August 6, 2014 Posted August 6, 2014 What battery are you using Moose? Is it fully charged etc. I know sounds like a stupid question but it's the first thing to rule out. If there's not enough power the gears won't be able to pull the spring back. straffham 1
straffham Posted August 6, 2014 Posted August 6, 2014 Could be several things. Does the wiring get hot? Any unusual noises? Have you swapped any components? Looking at the pic there appear to be exposed battery connecting leads coming out of the back of the gearbox which could cause a short?
Unrustle_Thine_Jimmies Posted August 6, 2014 Posted August 6, 2014 Your gun is a VFC,correct? First option to eliminate is the motor Does it heat up when it locks back? Does it seem to struggle? What is response like on a full charged battery before the lock back? After checking these decrease motor height. bit by bit. If that does not work then we can move on to the gears. If you want to be really thorough in eliminating the motor and isolating the problem to the gears then install a new stock motor and test. VFC's auto shimming gears love to fail and ruin gear meshing. Open up the GB,remove the air seal assembly but leave the gears and motor. Fire up the motor and see if it works well. It should all spin quickly with no grinding and the motor should not heat up or be stressed. If the gears are meshing badly,spinning really slowly and grinding then we can assume that they're miffed. You can save them by modding them to remove the auto shimming axle system. If the gears & motor are working fine,then eliminate the spring guide. Replace the spring with a new one and test the gun fully assembled,if it locks back then the spring guide is a suspect. Next is to replace the spring guide. Then test with the original spring and new spring. Try all of that,should fix the problem by the end or at least make it clear what's happening. Worst case scenario in my opinion is that the motor is bolloxed and must be replaced along with the spring guide and spring. Gears being un-auto shimmed should be done IMO to remove any possibility of them miffing the GB
Moose87 Posted August 6, 2014 Author Posted August 6, 2014 the wires do get fairly hot when it locks back. the wiring isnt great but i dont think thats a problem. im gonna go for a motor fail i think. any recommendations on a decent motor?
Supporters Lozart Posted August 6, 2014 Supporters Posted August 6, 2014 It may just be the angle of the picture, but the piston looks pissed to me...
ak2m4 Posted August 6, 2014 Posted August 6, 2014 Lots of good motors out there, the SHS standard motors are pretty good and cheap, same with the ZCI motors (these are slightly cheaper). If you want to go for something a little more upmarket then Lonex do a good range. But before you start shelling out definately worth trying to find out what the actual problem is first. What spring is this pulling? Also have you tried inserting a long screwdriver into the nozzle and pushing to see if the actual piston goes all the way back? Just another thing you can do before you crack it open... straffham 1
straffham Posted August 6, 2014 Posted August 6, 2014 If you've had the gun a while it could just be the trigger contacts have eroded or are black with carbon so only a low current is passing through. Def worth trying another motor though if you have one handy.
Unrustle_Thine_Jimmies Posted August 6, 2014 Posted August 6, 2014 Lots of good motors out there, the SHS standard motors are pretty good and cheap, same with the ZCI motors (these are slightly cheaper). If you want to go for something a little more upmarket then Lonex do a good range. But before you start shelling out definately worth trying to find out what the actual problem is first. What spring is this pulling? Also have you tried inserting a long screwdriver into the nozzle and pushing to see if the actual piston goes all the way back? Just another thing you can do before you crack it open... Mate,the 22TPA ZCIs you sell are miles better than the lonex ones. Lonex are grand,sure,but SHS and ZCI are the same in build quality but offer 16TPA and 22TPA respectively,way more efficient and bang for buck is better
Mack Posted August 6, 2014 Posted August 6, 2014 It may just be the angle of the picture, but the piston looks pissed to me... ^^^^ same for me, definitly looks like its off the guides
Moose87 Posted August 7, 2014 Author Posted August 7, 2014 Its on the Guides, the battery is charged, its the stock spring (runs about 330fps). I have tried two different springs, two different pistons, two different motors. trigger contacts are fine as i replaced them a few months before this happened, gears work fine when the cylinder Assembly is removed, piston goes all the way back when the spring is removed. I have noticed the Wiring gets quite hot, not sure if this is common or not as i have never tested for it before or that this is part of the problem. i think im looking at two options now. Spring Guide is off, not to sure how this locks the gear box so if someone could explain. Wiring is fuck so the motor is not getting enough power to turn. Thoughts??
Moose87 Posted August 14, 2014 Author Posted August 14, 2014 she lives!!!!!! i think the wiring was gone so wasnt putting enough power into the motor. all good now and shoots like a beast. Lozart 1
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