Honey badger gears

[moonmoose]

So, running an 11.1 lipo in my ares honey badger first destroyed the motor and then stripped the bevel and spur gear. Not bad for 9 mags into its life... I was alternating between 7.4v lipos and the only one 11.1v lipo I own specifically for the badger. it all went wrong on the 11.1v.

 

I have a new motor, a lonex A1. Recommended gears to replace the poopy original ones?

 

Thanks

 

Scott

[Sitting Duck]

Ares ???

should be a ver 2 in there so I would suggest SHS 18:1 or 16:1

but if it got shagged so quick I would send it back - it is "supposed" to be lipo ready

Think some Ares are a bit hit n miss but would expect it last a bit ffs

I mean motor and gears strip that quick - jeez you sure you didn't run it on 14.8v lipo or 240v mains

for it to do that much damage so quick it couldn't have been running sweet out of box

but if ya have investigated it then ya probably lost ya warranty opening up g/box

[straffham]

Drop Pete "ak2m4" a line on here, he has SHS & ZCI steel gearsets at very favourable prices, I've used SHS sets and find them excellent. Or his website www.ak2m4.co.uk is great for internal parts.

[CaptainDumbass]

SHS 13:1 gears, that motor (make sure the adjustment height is perfect), AOE corrected perfectly, some sort of mosfet, plenty of grease, m100 spring, swiss cheesed (but not over the top) piston with steel teeth.

[Sitting Duck]

weigh piston first.....

just under 20g is what I aimed for on last few builds on complete piston

a set of full steel teeth & an ali head can get up to 30gms with piston bearing

some cheap lightweight pistons can be as low as 13gms but didn't look robust for a hi speed setup

swiss cheese may only reduce weight by about 3 or 4gms which equates to all steel teeth or ali head

 

In a DMR with higher spring a bit of weight is ideal but if going for hi rof then a lighter piston is required

(but without losing too much strength)

 

For what its worth - if you have a set of scales then use them to check weight of piston

you would be suprised the difference when you compare a few pistons and it can make a difference

If using hi speed gears 13:1 or 12:1 and piston is a bit heavier then you may get pre-engagement &

that may require short stroking & a slightly heavier spring if this happens.

You can nudge 30+ on stock 18:1 gears if you get your homework done with a hi speed motor

hence I said 18 or 16:1, half decent 20g or less piston should be fine with 1 or 3 steel teeth for most peeps

 

as always take time & triple check everything turns/slides smoothly as you rebuild it.

always check any parts you replace fit properly - sounds obvious but often new parts may need a bit of sanding

or filing to fit into gearbox and close up perfectly. Failing to check a new part fits will often lead to snap or bang

 

weigh the piston if you can and you may not need to use all steel teeth/swiss cheese piston unless you are going nutz

 

I think it already may mosfet in with electrics on gearbox as well as all steel piston:

 

http://www.airsoft-military-news.com/review-ares-amoeba-honey-badger

 

but should of been able to handle 11.1v really and if review guide was saying rof is 15 then sounds like 18:1

and just a torquey motor rather than torque+speed motor in there:

 

 

But when the situation demands, you can rock full auto and get around 15 rounds per second down the barrel to your opponents at 300 feet per second, which is great for CQB games.

 

Anyway - looks like all steel teeth piston - maybe weigh it and see, could swiss cheese it

but also the steel teeth could of contributed to gears shredding if box jammed

instead of just having a piston snapped at the initial pickup tooth perhaps ???

(probably never know for sure how all gears & motor shredded inside now)

[M_P]

[Rock-climby-Dave]

The HB gearset needs a magnet in it to work the cut off,

[Sitting Duck]

Blimey - wtf did they do that for I wonder ???

ASCU & others just use micro switches, pic chip & "normal" gears

think I'll cross that aeg off my wish list maybe