Cheeky vimto Posted April 9, 2015 Posted April 9, 2015 I dont think it matters what way itt's wired up, it's just a switch. While the box is open you can run a test to see if it's the trigger. Connect the battery and motor and use a separate wire and link the two wires going into the trigger. If you're quick and hold the wire tight you shouldn't really get an arc. If your motor spins that means something is wrong with the trigger.
Supporters Sitting Duck Posted April 9, 2015 Supporters Posted April 9, 2015 soz pic 3 showed what I couldn't see should just work me thinks or switch burnt out or broke deffo test switch - it should just make prefect circuit
Cheeky vimto Posted April 9, 2015 Posted April 9, 2015 Ok, here the area I think y'all asked to see. If it's not, I'll go take more pics. Nothing to do with the electrical side, but is that metal shavings under your bevel gear in the first picture?
Supporters SeniorSpaz87 Posted April 9, 2015 Author Supporters Posted April 9, 2015 Nothing to do with the electrical side, but is that metal shavings under your bevel gear in the first picture? Nope, just shiny grease
Cheeky vimto Posted April 9, 2015 Posted April 9, 2015 Nope, just shiny grease By-passed the trigger yet?
Supporters SeniorSpaz87 Posted April 9, 2015 Author Supporters Posted April 9, 2015 unfortunatly, no. also, until I get new connectors for my battery, I cant. shouldnt be too long
Supporters SeniorSpaz87 Posted April 9, 2015 Author Supporters Posted April 9, 2015 Aright, I am now in a position to test the motors; and about to get a bill for my jump into electrical (airsoft) engineering. Got a soldering kit already (done quite a bit of that already), as well as solder, a few meters of wires, wire cutters, wire strippers, and more. About to buy a bunch or deans and mini-t connectors, shrink wrap, and more... Anyway, is this an ok (and safe (ish)) setup to bypass the trigger and attempt to activate the motor? I've got my pilot flame-proof gloves at the ready just in case I set my bed sheets on fire... Also, you can see the battery I melted the mini-t connectors on...
Supporters SeniorSpaz87 Posted April 9, 2015 Author Supporters Posted April 9, 2015 By-passed the trigger yet? And should I be getting anything else at the same time (multimeter?)?
Supporters ImTriggerHappy Posted April 9, 2015 Supporters Posted April 9, 2015 Do not solder on your bed its not the best idea. Im starting to think you should just take it to a shop or at least keep a fire extinguisher under your pillow.
Supporters SeniorSpaz87 Posted April 9, 2015 Author Supporters Posted April 9, 2015 Haha, I don't actually do that on my bed. I got a table downstairs I've set up as my shop; to the dismay of my mother. I got away with it when I was doing school engineering projects, but until I get a better option, the unused room will be my workplace. Cheeky vimto 1
Cheeky vimto Posted April 10, 2015 Posted April 10, 2015 Q Aright, I am now in a position to test the motors; and about to get a bill for my jump into electrical (airsoft) engineering. Got a soldering kit already (done quite a bit of that already), as well as solder, a few meters of wires, wire cutters, wire strippers, and more. About to buy a bunch or deans and mini-t connectors, shrink wrap, and more... Anyway, is this an ok (and safe (ish)) setup to bypass the trigger and attempt to activate the motor? I've got my pilot flame-proof gloves at the ready just in case I set my bed sheets on fire... Also, you can see the battery I melted the mini-t connectors on... Thats fine, definitely change the battery connectors! If you wanted to check the motor you could just connect the motor straight to the battery. Would be easier with two people as the motor spins pretty fast. To check the trigger, set up like the picture but split the gearbox. Use another wire and connect it to the two wires on the trigger. If the motor spins (maybe do it test after the motor test) it means the trigger needs replacing.
Supporters SeniorSpaz87 Posted April 10, 2015 Author Supporters Posted April 10, 2015 Q Thats fine, definitely change the battery connectors! If you wanted to check the motor you could just connect the motor straight to the battery. Would be easier with two people as the motor spins pretty fast. To check the trigger, set up like the picture but split the gearbox. Use another wire and connect it to the two wires on the trigger. If the motor spins (maybe do it test after the motor test) it means the trigger needs replacing. yea, got a bunch of deans and mini-t male and female ends on the way. ill test the motor when I get home.
Cheeky vimto Posted April 10, 2015 Posted April 10, 2015 yea, got a bunch of deans and mini-t male and female ends on the way. ill test the motor when I get home. Stick with deans if you can.
Supporters SeniorSpaz87 Posted April 10, 2015 Author Supporters Posted April 10, 2015 yep; the ts are just so i have some extras on hand. Ill probably leave my p90 and mp40 on mini-t, if they ever need work like my M4 does, then ill switch them over in the process. But if it aint broken, dont fix it.
Supporters SeniorSpaz87 Posted April 10, 2015 Author Supporters Posted April 10, 2015 Update; A bunch of wires, some DIY, a few sparks, and one heart attack later, I can confirm the motor works. So I guess it's the trigger connector. So... Now the question is where can I get a new one? And TriggerHappy thinks I should add a fuse in there as well. Opinions on this and where to get one as well as the trigger connections? Cheeky vimto 1
Supporters ImTriggerHappy Posted April 10, 2015 Supporters Posted April 10, 2015 Self resetting fuse from Airlab £10 New trigger switch you should be able to get from most shops.
Cheeky vimto Posted April 10, 2015 Posted April 10, 2015 Update; A bunch of wires, some DIY, a few sparks, and one heart attack later, I can confirm the motor works. So I guess it's the trigger connector. So... Now the question is where can I get a new one? And TriggerHappy thinks I should add a fuse in there as well. Opinions on this and where to get one as well as the trigger connections? I might have my old wire with a fuse on it if you want it. It's still fine, I just took it out when I stuck my mosfet in. Nice work on the motor testing, told you it'd be easier with 2 people ImTriggerHappy 1
Supporters SeniorSpaz87 Posted April 10, 2015 Author Supporters Posted April 10, 2015 Self resetting fuse from Airlab £10 New trigger switch you should be able to get from most shops. Ok, thanks. Anywhere online that you know of to get the trigger parts? I might have my old wire with a fuse on it if you want it. It's still fine, I just took it out when I stuck my mosfet in. Nice work on the motor testing, told you it'd be easier with 2 people I'll just get a new one, but thanks for the offer. I was trying to get the motor to start (wasn't working, but it was a hodgepodge setup), and when it all of a sudden started, I nearly hit my head on the roof, as I thought it was dead . Should I look into MOSFETs as well? I'm not sure on them; beyond the little I've read on here I know nothing.but I'm pretty confident right now; as nothing was set on fire (talk about a confidence boost).
Supporters ImTriggerHappy Posted April 10, 2015 Supporters Posted April 10, 2015 Try firesupport for the trigger switch. I wouldn't worry about the mosfet yet get everything working then start thinking about upgrades.
Cheeky vimto Posted April 10, 2015 Posted April 10, 2015 Ok, thanks. Anywhere online that you know of to get the trigger parts? I'll just get a new one, but thanks for the offer. I was trying to get the motor to start (wasn't working, but it was a hodgepodge setup), and when it all of a sudden started, I nearly hit my head on the roof, as I thought it was dead . Should I look into MOSFETs as well? I'm not sure on them; beyond the little I've read on here I know nothing.but I'm pretty confident right now; as nothing was set on fire (talk about a confidence boost). Mosfet are easy. It's youre basic 2 wires from battery plus a 3rd wire that goes on your trigger. I use hamsterfet, easy to set up and fairly cheap. Mosfet are only really needed if your planing on using lipo batteries. I put one on mine while I was upgrading for ROF and thought I might make the switch in batteries, I still haven't. Well done mate, looks like you sorted you gun out by yourself. You've just saved yourself some coin and also gained something money can't buy; experience.
Supporters SeniorSpaz87 Posted April 10, 2015 Author Supporters Posted April 10, 2015 Mosfet are easy. It's youre basic 2 wires from battery plus a 3rd wire that goes on your trigger. I use hamsterfet, easy to set up and fairly cheap. Mosfet are only really needed if your planing on using lipo batteries. I put one on mine while I was upgrading for ROF and thought I might make the switch in batteries, I still haven't. Well done mate, looks like you sorted you gun out by yourself. You've just saved yourself some coin and also gained something money can't buy; experience. Ok, then I'll skip on the 'fet for now as I only use Nimh. And while on the subject of MOSFETs; this one seems to have some neat functions:http://www.airsoftworld.net/new-2014-burst-wizard-king-kong-super-2-mosfet.html
Cheeky vimto Posted April 10, 2015 Posted April 10, 2015 Ok, then I'll skip on the 'fet for now as I only use Nimh. Still need to find a trigger connection though... I'm having a look for you but I've never seen trigger switch like yours. I can't see how you trigger sits in it. Confused!
Supporters SeniorSpaz87 Posted April 10, 2015 Author Supporters Posted April 10, 2015 I can get better pics as well
Cheeky vimto Posted April 10, 2015 Posted April 10, 2015 Just have a quick read of this; http://www.kingdomofairsoft.com/index.php?content_name=guides&sub_section=Microswitches Might be worth putting a mosfet in if your trigger is a micro switch, might save you doing all this again.
Cheeky vimto Posted April 10, 2015 Posted April 10, 2015 I can get better pics as well Its a microswitch I think, try goggle it.
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