AOE does this look right help!

[MrEnDo]

Testing my sobo pad I got from airlabs does this look right or do I need to do some adjustments?

[cyrexx]

Looks like it's sticking out a bit too much.

[MrEnDo]

Do you think with spring in it will compress a little.

[Sitting Duck]

NO - not that much unless you fitting a m190 with a $hitload of spring spacers

 

the first tooth of sector gear is pointing at aprox 11:45

(or 15 mins to midday/midnight)

 

you should be looking at aprox 12:30 - I say aprox coz you can have it it like 12:15 to 12:45

depending on your choice/build and how thick each sorbo pad is - eg 2mm increments

 

my guess is you used a pad too many

 

usually 1 or 2 will do the job - some piston's teeth can be set say 0.75mm further back than another

piston heads - double O-ring ones and Silent piston's are longer and req very llittle sorbo's

heck even the cylinder head can be deeper or shallow with thick or thin stock pad on there

 

so you see there is no deffo - 2 x 2mm pads is the magic number for all

(especially if pads are not 2mm thick)

[Sitting Duck]

2nd tooth is already removed

you need to reduce the 3rd tooth

 

DO NOT REMOVE IT - it helps to engage the other teeth

if you remove 3rd tooth then it may not engage 4th n 5th teeth on piston and jump

 

you shave off the 3rd a little - leaving it aprox 75% height - most you remove is 50% - NO MORE

if sector's 2nd tooth still snags it after removing a max of 50% off 3rd tooth then sorbo/AOE is too much

after shaving 3rd tooth a tiny bit the sector should just miss it as it revolves and engages pick up tooth

(slight gap you should see and be confident it would snag - common sense really)

 

1st tooth on piston is that chunky one called pick up tooth, 2nd tooth is already removed (cheers G&G)

the 3rd needs shaving - small craft file is best to reduce 3rd tooth

 

The face of the chunky pick up tooth and the sector gear's 1st tooth should slap each other flush or as near as damn it

picture the two " V "'s slapping perfectly face to face - that is what you are seeking

 

google some images - atm you are the wrong side of midnight so to speak from a sorbo overdose

[MrEnDo]

I used a airlab sobo pad I remove it and put the stock rubber back on and see if it was fine. Cheers for your help. I do some more pics tonight.

[Sitting Duck]

Airlabs ???

 

I just use these:

 

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Neoprene-Rubber-Penny-Washers-Adhesive-Backed-M4-M5-M6-M8-M10-M12-SN0001-/250981193606?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&var=&hash=item3a6fa51786

 

M4 hole & 20mm diameter - may not be fully Airsoft Mechanics spec and correct 50 or 70 degree hardness

but wtf at that price - does the job

 

Self adhesive - could just buy plain rubber washer and superglue them on but like the peel n sticky ones

 

£2 for 10 or 20p each, less if you buy in bulk

[MrEnDo]

Yeah this is what I'm using currently.

 

http://airlab.parts/products/sorbothane-pad-70d-hardness

 

But I have heard about using washers before. Just brought 25 of them £3.99

[Lozart]

I've used the Airlab pad in two of my guns. If the piston is too far back you can trim a bit off the black part with a sharp knife. Still does the job.

[MrEnDo]

Hows this looking now?

[Sitting Duck]

Near enough to me but got a crooked neck now ffs

 

could of maybe gone a smidge more but the sides of teeth look to be slapping each other

so by doing this you won't get the big initial pick up tooth snapping off at higher speeds

(done that twice before penny dropped that you can't just drop a beefy motor & 11.1v in a gun)

 

it is all down to your own preference and what increments you can work to in the end

 

you can trim a thin 2mm washer/pad and slip behind piston head - once done up it will compress to 1mm thickness

so taking a 1mm pad and doing the same would give you 0.5mm squish to push piston a smidge further back

 

BUT it looks fine - the more AOE you do the more fps you will lose as stroke is slightly reduced

but if you improved the seals - better o-ring on piston getting a better seal and ptfe on cylinder head, o-ring nozzle

you claw back what you might lose doing AOE - aprox 10-15fps

 

For added boost add a bearing spring guide - this will also compress spring a smidge more to put you back up or a little more than before

 

Please ensure that EVERYTHING you add/replace operates smoothly and doesn't catch/snag

one of the best tools you can have is a small set of craft files - coz a lot of them TM compatible parts very often benefit from a smoothing over

 

You can chuck the best parts in the world in a box and still won't last as long as a load of old crappy parts from a spares box carefully assembled

 

You are taking your time step by step which should yeild great effective results once you are finished

 

AOE looks fine to me - but my friggin neck hurts now - next time rotate the bloomin' pic

 

ps - what box is that - piston looks G&G-ish but brass cylinder I haven't seen in my v2 G&G's - usually blue cylinder

[Lozart]

Hows this looking now?

I'd say it's sitting a little too far forward. Bearing in mind the sorbo will compress slightly under pressure from the spring.