elrasho Posted August 3, 2015 Author Posted August 3, 2015 Took it apart and cocked it. The first image shows the trigger unit NOT cocked:As you can see that pin at the front is at the top. Now when I've pulled the cock back it moves here:Then when I move the cocking handle back to its original place the pin moves back to how it was in the first picture. Is that the fault?
Guest PT247 Posted August 3, 2015 Posted August 3, 2015 Am assuming you are pulling it back fully? What could be happening is the trigger guard may need tightening slightly as that holds the peg in to the spring guide
elrasho Posted August 3, 2015 Author Posted August 3, 2015 Yep all the way back until it stops, then I keep my hand on the handle and let it moves back into position. I feel a click just about when it going back into its neutral position. I've tightened the trigger gaurd screw to no avail.
Guest PT247 Posted August 3, 2015 Posted August 3, 2015 When you pull it back is it as stiff to pull as when you push it forward?
elrasho Posted August 3, 2015 Author Posted August 3, 2015 It's stiffer pulling back, once pulled all the way back it's much easier for it to go back into the neutral position. In fact if I let go it goes back all by itself. I have a feeling it's something in the trigger box, when I press the trigger it seems really lose. And I hear a squeaking noise.
Guest PT247 Posted August 3, 2015 Posted August 3, 2015 Sounds like the sear that grabs the piston isn't catching it. Which implies to me that the trigger block needs tightening at the front.... May need loosening slightly at the rear first
elrasho Posted August 3, 2015 Author Posted August 3, 2015 Ok will try that tomorrow. Shame it doesn't work out of the box, bit of a let down.
elrasho Posted August 4, 2015 Author Posted August 4, 2015 I put it back to gether again and it fires! However when I've cocked the handle back I have to jiggle it about for it to go back in. Something it catching......
Guest PT247 Posted August 4, 2015 Posted August 4, 2015 (hate to say "shouldagottaTM" lol) Does anything look like the culprit or random catching?
elrasho Posted August 4, 2015 Author Posted August 4, 2015 I'll dissmantle it and put it together again, but cant see anything obvious. I got the JG bevcasue alot of reviews said they buiild quality is actually pretty good.
Guest PT247 Posted August 4, 2015 Posted August 4, 2015 (I had to adjust the trigger mech on my TM VSR too lol)
Unrustle_Thine_Jimmies Posted August 6, 2015 Posted August 6, 2015 (I had to adjust the trigger mech on my TM VSR too lol) Hah,so did I Even the best get lemons it seems. Maybe it was one batch where they miffed the Trigger pull screw positions or just didn't bother test firing them. OP,I assume you've been adjusting trigger pull and stroke? On the adjustment window,the trigger should be holding up the trigger sear,but not be perfectly flat,but slightly at an angle so the squared off bit should be contacting the sear. Trial and error won't do any harm
elrasho Posted August 14, 2015 Author Posted August 14, 2015 Decided to try fixing it again today, all I did was losen the Alan key screws on the body and it works flawlessly! My next issue is I can't really see a difference between having the hop on or off. Does it need bedding or is there something else I need to check.
Guest PT247 Posted August 14, 2015 Posted August 14, 2015 You'll probs need to do thw biro mod to the hop arm or upgrade the hop arm, if it is like the TM it won't lift anything heavier than a 0.2g BB
elrasho Posted August 14, 2015 Author Posted August 14, 2015 I can't find any information on the biro mod
Guest PT247 Posted August 18, 2015 Posted August 18, 2015 second image in google search for "vsr 10 biro mod"
Snakeeyes75 Posted August 18, 2015 Posted August 18, 2015 Biro Mod is fine on the TM, The JG hop arm has a bit too much "slop". A good upgrade is the Type B lever (Dangerwerx or Airsoft pro) and ditch the crappy hop rubber, The TM ones are fab TBH, although I'm currently trying a PDI W hold one as I now have a TBB fitted. PTFE the cylinder head and hop rubber and you should see a 20 fps increase.
elrasho Posted November 4, 2015 Author Posted November 4, 2015 Finally decided on these upgrades. Note I'm not going to increase the FPS just yet, going to try the sniper out in the field with these upgrades. If I like it then I'll go and increase the FPS and relevant parts for that.
Supporters Samurai Posted November 4, 2015 Supporters Posted November 4, 2015 Very good choices. elrasho 1
elrasho Posted November 4, 2015 Author Posted November 4, 2015 Thinking of getting a dangerwax or Airsoft Pro hop lever too
Guest PT247 Posted November 5, 2015 Posted November 5, 2015 not sure how that would work with the hop unit?
elrasho Posted November 5, 2015 Author Posted November 5, 2015 Oh yeah I'm getting a whole new unit doh!
elrasho Posted November 9, 2015 Author Posted November 9, 2015 Decided to get the parts from a UK based retailer instead. They don't do the two hop rubbers I've sown here but have the Action Army one instead. Im sure I'll get similar results with this one. Also the barrel is an Action Army "silver streak" one, I'm assuming it's the same thing?
elrasho Posted November 15, 2015 Author Posted November 15, 2015 All upgrade parts are in apart from the concave nub which is still in the post. Wasn't too difficult to upgrade using that YouTube video. So FPS has gone up from 330 to 385 which is great. Not sure of accuracy and range as it got dark and I'm using 0.25g bbs. Since my FPS is sub 400 what weight BBs should I use?
Guest PT247 Posted November 16, 2015 Posted November 16, 2015 0.3g should be fine. The RWA Airsoft Surgeon 0.3g BBs are the best I've ever used.
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