Dannn Posted November 2, 2015 Posted November 2, 2015 It's not often I'm stunned by how such s simple thing makes a huge difference! Basically I'm fannying around with my bar 10 until my new internals come just seeing what happens from doing what. I took the hop unit to bits to see how it works as it wouldn't lift .30's which I thought was a bit crap. This is why... Pretty much no nub ! That pathetic excuse for a nub did nothing! So I took the arm off, sanded the nub off, cut a square of pencil eraser 5mmx5mmx4 Stuck that on and sanded an angle on it so it made flat contact with the bucking, put it all back together and it'll now send .30's to the sky with full hop and a perfect flat trajectory with half hop on and I lazered the extra flat range at 30' Now that's fucking awesome for 25 mins work and no cost in parts, just shows with a little experiment lots can be gained ! proffrink, Samurai, Jedi_Master and 1 other 4
Root Admin proffrink Posted November 2, 2015 Root Admin Posted November 2, 2015 Yep, that's basically an M-nub, heh. Nice work. Happy 1
Supporters ImTriggerHappy Posted November 2, 2015 Supporters Posted November 2, 2015 Ahhh I just invented the wheel lolNope people have been doing it for years.
Root Admin proffrink Posted November 2, 2015 Root Admin Posted November 2, 2015 Isn't that the joke? Monty and Sacarathe 2
Dannn Posted November 2, 2015 Author Posted November 2, 2015 Yeah, inventing something that people have always done !
Unrustle_Thine_Jimmies Posted November 2, 2015 Posted November 2, 2015 I dabbled in this mod quite a bit after digging up an old airsoftsociety thread I personally prefer using epoxy to shape the new nub as I find the pencil eraser is inefficient and can cause curving issues at long range I found it jammed up the whole gun when applying too much hop. with epoxy or some similar filling you can file it to shape similar to a Dangerwerx arm,the parabola is way better(in my experience) Of course,the inefficiency problems using a square eraser nub are only with standard buckings,a W-hold in my case,with R-hop or G-hop where pressure is applied differently the M-nub is better I've been told. Maybe I have been doing something wrong using a flat eraser bit or maybe it's because of the way the W-hold works. Every bit of performance is worthwhile and if yours works then no bother at all.
Supporters ImTriggerHappy Posted November 2, 2015 Supporters Posted November 2, 2015 Isn't that the joke?Nope the joke is; Reinventing the wheel. Sorry got the literalism turned up a bit high tonight, its Monday. Dannn 1
Bullet Posted November 6, 2015 Posted November 6, 2015 There is a guy on the airsoft sniper forum using a brass nub to lift his bbs.
Root Admin proffrink Posted November 6, 2015 Root Admin Posted November 6, 2015 The firmness of the nub doesn't matter a whole deal as you can mitigate it through applying more or less hop anyway. Really it's the surface area that matters, which is why a lot of people are modifying the flat nubs to work with extended R-Hop patches for a maximum, even hop surface.
Supporters Samurai Posted November 7, 2015 Supporters Posted November 7, 2015 Me thinks otherwise. The hardness of the nub matters a lot. Soft nubs allow way more range to adjust the hopup. In one of my bolt action rifles I have a hard nub and a maple leaf rubber and in colder weather it doesn't shoot at all. It goes from no hopup to jam. And that with a TDC mod. I have also experimented with H nubs in my AEGs a few times and never experienced any increase in anything, only this decrease of hopup adjustability because the nub being hard.
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