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Just make sure you dont accidentally get some fairy power spray on it and remove the paint when wiping off your accidental spillage. Dont tell people on internet forums about your mishap either, it might give the wrong impression.

The tan is pretty cool against the OD too. Not sure if any companies are doing a repro of the new LLMs yet. I'm finishing up my M870 build which has been nothing but a pain. Still the cylinder to troubleshoot and lots of external bits like the sling mount and sling in the post, but had it mostly assembled anyway so put it together: Happy with the results so far.

I think this is the first time I've been back on the forums in literally months. =[ I've more or less dropped the hobby whilst I sort my finances out, sort a car out, and sort out a house. It's a 3 year plan but hopefully it won't take that long. Despite not playing for months, I am still buying stuff though, because y'know, nothing slows down your life plan like spending the money you're meant to be saving on new shiny gun stuff... Most recent purchase is an Elcan Spectre DR and a 20mm conversion mount for my L85. I must admit, I always thought I preferred the ACOG on L85s because it takes a funky canilever mount to get it on there, but the Spectre is definitely growing on me. Mainly because, in the airsoft world at least, they're just infinitely better optics. This thing trumps my ACOG on literally every front apart from maybe size (because it's massive) and weight (because it might as well be a brick). Better glass quality making the clarity much more crisp, no more foggy view as per my ACOG. The reticle is beautifully clear, not lop sided, and doesn't blur against the target. It's also illumated with 12 levels of brightness across two colours, and the eye relief is fantastic - no more ramming my eyeball into the rear lens to see anything. It also has the bonus feature, well sort of, that if you configure the red dot on top to zero to the main optic, then every time you rezero the main optic, you simultaneously zero the red dot as well. Due to it being slaved to it; when you adjust the main sight, it's the sight that moves on its mount, rather than the internals of the sight moving within the body, and since the red dot just sits on top, if you move the main optic, you're also moving the red dot, so they stay zeroed to the same point. Win win. Though I have yet to field it, so that may mean knocking it causes it to lose zero... In which case I'll be very annoyed and counting that as more of a fail than a win, but for now it seems a handy feature. Certainly makes it easier to switch between multiple rifles as the time spent reconfiguring will be halved. But anyway, pictures:

ICS all the way, superior internals, just picked up an ICS ProArms Mk3 this week oh man it sweeeeeeeet

It comes down to the one in a million chance of this high energy projectile hitting somewhere fragile. Like your face. It might be an accident, it if someone takes a direct hit to the face at less than 10m, will it break their eye pro? Could it bust a nose open? Could someone be about to hose them down with bbs as their eye pro falls to pieces? In a perfect world, an MED and call out works a treat. But the danger with these (in the eyes of an insurer at least, I've never seen or been hit by one) is the same reason people aren't allowed to lob reusable pyro around. Yes, people signed a waiver to be shot at and have mk5s lobbed at them, but nobody signs a waiver to allow high energy projectiles like a BFG or a TAG grenade. With a proper investigation into how much damage one of these could do in a worst-case scenario (assuming that they are actually safe to fire at someone at close range), you could probably convince most insurers that they are safe and justified to use.

Mate thats so wrong.? Get her to wax first.?

I don't know about that, I love spending time in some bush! And a sudden entry into a rear passage, just to see the surprise on her face. Back to airsoft... MP5 or MP5K work well at the Mall.

M4 is sorted so I shall be shooting, I mean seeing you fine gents on Sunday

300 fps with a good hop is more than sufficient for plastic death at range, pew pew pew

Dont fall into the whole sniper/dmr thing of shooting further. A longer barrel doesnt do much for range on an aeg its all about the hop up, bucking nub combo, barrel quality/bore, bb weight/quality and most importantly that its set up properly. You can get slightly more range because of higher Fps but not a lot. Would go for a more manoeuvrable gun over the extra few meters of range everytime.

If you want to play a bunker you should try the ucap bunker. Is nuts down there! Is also full auto every where and 350fps limit. Is extreeme cqb in damn near pitch black

Change of pace needed, so - G&P M7A1 Type B - MUR Upper Receiver version Dytac TRX Battlerail 7.2" in Black G&P Mushroom Muzzle Break in Black (As much as the Madbull SI Cookie Cutter is nice, not paying an extra £50 to get some trademarks). Dytac Invader M4 Magazine - Box of 5, Black Edit: Orga Magnus 6.13mm 182mm for AEG A Plus REAPS Bucking Dytac H Nub G&G Plastic Hop Unit (Because the G&P one is garbage) ASCU Gen 4 I should stop spending right now

I've always used Contours instead, they're much cheaper, better battery life, better sound quality, simpler design and a little less imposing. They look like a bit of airsoft equipment rather than a big square camera. GoPros still win on picture clarity and do use better camera sensors for higher resolution images and shit, but they're still both capable of full HD video at more than a good enough quality for airsoft videos. You can pick up Contour ROAMs online for next to nothing second hand, and there's a bunch of different mounts for them too.

Well, fortunately for you (to save you from your instinct for a bargain which jbbg prey upon), Trisnpod, those Mossbergs are out of stock {OOS for future reference {FFR}} @jbbg. Trust us. We are not running a vendetta against jbbg for some imagined or real slight in the past, we are not running a vendetta at all, but warning you/anyone reading this because there are countless threads on here started by noobs who have all 1) heard about airsoft 2) googled it 3) found jbbg 4) bought a piece of shit {POS FFR} 5) tried to get a refund/replacement/repair 6) been simply ignored or lied to and finally 7) found us... 7a) we very often end up having to advise youngsters that whilst all airsoft guns are BB guns, not all BB guns are airsoft guns, regardless of what colour they are, or what FPS &/or range sites like jbbg quote. In this case there are some cheaper springer shotguns, both single and triple shot, which are skirmishable (in woodland most, but not all by any means, of them make for a challenging primary weapon and are thus often carried in over-the-shoulder holsters as secondaries, but they are fine for use @CQB sites {Close Quarter Battle = usually Urban}; indeed some people like to use a POS as a challenging primary @CQB to inflict more humiliation on their targets, but better learn some gun/tac skillz before you try that or you'll just get pwned all day long without even a hope of getting your own back), however AFAIK those 2 you picked out are not suitable beginners' primary weapons... 350/55FPS my arse - a cheap springer with a barrel that short will be lucky to produce over 300FPS if it is expected to work for more than about 5 shots, because the guts of them are made from plastic and zinc alloy {AKA pot metal/monkey metal/cheese}. Note that it says "JBBG TESTED" - well, we don't know for sure that they do not have a special high reading chronograph which they keep specifically for these tests, but what we do know is that if you fired one of our primary weapons which we know, from experience chronoing at various sites, shoots at, say, about 345FPS, those shotties would measure @least 45 less. BTW Crosman mainly make air pistols, which are a whole different kettle of fish to airsoft guns, and their POS BB guns are just a way of cashing in off people who don't know any better; Cybergun on the other hand don't make anything, they just put their label on other manufacturers' products to market them in countries where the original manufacturer has no distribution - i'm not 100% certain but i think that plastic Mossberg 500 design is made by Palco, who make a whole range of P'sOS all of which should be avoided apart from their CO2 powered pistols which, although very cheap, are surprisingly good. As I said above, if you go for a cheap shottie, get either one of the Double Eagle M56 range (which fire 3 BB's per shot & are clones of a very successful Tokyo Marui design), or one of their M58 range which fire 1 BB per shot (I can't personally vouch for their M47 range, but others on here may be able to); or an ASG Franchi SAS which also come in either 3 or 1 BB/shot versions. Is cash a major issue for you? If so, how much is your budget?

Hello all, So now the TAG Innovation rounds have revolutionized the uses for launchers, it sparked an idea that might (safety dependant) enable them to do the same for shoulder launched airsoft anti-tank kits? Many use Nerf rockets in their anti-tank launchers to good effect, however I wondered if there wasn't a way one could hollow out such a rocket and insert the TAG round, so that when launched it could also go out with a bang? Thinking about it now, even just hollowing out a Nerf from the tip like a pumpkin, then giving it smaller more numerous holes around the sides of the body, to then filling it with coloured powder and covering the side holes with a thin paper wad, could also give good powder explosion effect for cheaper? Maybe someone's tried that, good to hear any thoughts on bettering anti-tank airsoft effectiveness and practical uses, as shower grenades are a bit of a let down for these kits in my humble opinion.

A Noobs HPA Engine Build - My Wondrous Journey So I thought I’d start a thread on here to document my latest Polarstar (“P*”) build, documenting what I purchased, where I purchased it from, my experience of the retailers, progress of the build, any problems/issues, some general FAQ’s and finally the finished project. I’ll be doing this in the evenings after work, making sure to cover each step and uploaded pictures for reference. Hopefully this can also serve as a basic guide for those people looking to get into HPA engines such as “P*”, alongside providing basic how to’s and answers to common questions. I'm starting this tonight and will continue to update with pictures and progress in the evenings when I can. Please feel free to PM me with any questions or additional tips and I'll look to included them. Happy Reading Firstly….what did I buy and where: G&G GC16 MOD0 30th anniversary Edition - Airsoft World, Link here. Polarstar Jack (V2 Edition) - Beesting Airsoft, Link here. Ninja LPR + 36" Braided Line (In Red) - Beesting Airsoft, Link here. Retro Arms Speed Trigger (In Red) - Beesting Airsoft, Link here. Retro Arms Selector (In Red) - Beesting Airsoft, Link here. ZCI 6.02mm Stainless Steel Barrel - AK2M4, Link here. ZCI Prowin Clone (I have both polymer and CNC in red) - AK2M4, Link here for polymer and here for CNC. ZCI 12" Keymod Rail - AK2M4 - Link here. APS Ver.2 Tactical Dynamic Trigger - AK2M4 - Not on website currently, was a direct order. APS Evolution Tech Flash Hider - Ak2M4 - Not on website currently, was a direct order. Maple Leaf Bucking and Omega Nub - Milspec Solutions, link here and here Big Dragon Butterfly Aluminum Cocking handle - Airsoft Peak, link here Element M16 Tactical Target Grip - Airsoft Peak, link here VisionKing 1.25 x 26 Short Dot Scope - Ebay (VKTechLTD11), link here Paracord - Ebay (md-flashlights-etc-ltd), link here Pictures: http://imgur.com/gallery/XR7VQ My experience with these retailers: Airsoftworld - Had no communication with them really, I simply found the item, paid for it, it arrived next working day. I've used them before though and not had any issues. Beesting Airsoft - I cannot comment on how helpful this company has been (Danny in particular). I've purchased all of my HPA parts from them, in fact this is my 2nd P* build, 2 x Jacks, lines and regs. I can see myself using this company time and time again, happily recommending them to friends, family and fellow airsofters. Ak2M4 - Another great company I use a lot for internal parts, especially the barrels and hop units. Honest to god, best value for money and great customer service. Milspec solutions - Ordered from these guy quite a few times now, Spoken to Ian on a few occasion about upgrade parts etc. Always happy to offer advice, well packed and speedy delivery Polarstar - I spoke to these guys after they did the post about adding pictures, put both my builds on there and got speaking to a chap, I told them about my experience with their products and my small issue with the short FCU, they immediately offered to send me two extended cables. Absolutely shinning example of customer service, would certainly recommend them Airsoft Peak - My products arrived after a few weeks, took them about 6 days to process my order, but the items did arrive and the prices were great. Now I know the timelines I'd definitely use them again, but for items I don't mind waiting for. md-flashlights-etc-ltd - Ordered some paracord, was unsure on colour/length so I gave them a ring, they were polite and helpful. I even asked about next day delivery on this order and some other paracord and I only got charged the cheaper option but had them in my hands the next morning. Will be using them for all my paracord related purchases in the future. vktechltd - Made a best offer on a sight, then accidentally bought it now, ebay in it's wisdom then tried to make me pay for both. The guy was nice enough to cancel one of the orders......the cheapest best offer one lol I wasn't to annoyed though, would use them again as the quality of the scope is great and the item was well packaged. Overview and quality of the parts: This particular P* build is going to be a DMR, I'm aiming for range, accuracy and consistency, which is why I've chosen the parts I have as they've served me well in previous builds including my last P*. My base gun is the G&G MOD0, I got this as I've installed a Jack into other G&G's gearboxes and I found them easy to work with and give good alignment. Not to mention the price for AirsoftWorld was great considering it's full metal. I picked up another Jack as the I was really happy with the first one and for the price it's a great start in the HPA engine world. The regulators I use are the Ninja LPR's, they are easy to use, easy to maintain and once broken in they offer great consistency. The barrel I'm using for this build is the ZCI 6.02mm Stainless Barrel, normally for a DMR I'd use something a bit wider, however the last ZCI barrel I bought was great and I've been using them in other builds. Not to mention they have a slightly wider hop window than most stock barrels and Madbull barrels. The hop chambers I've got are the ZCI Prowin style, one is polymer and another is the RED CNC'd one. Again these are great and apply a nice pressure, with good range of adjustment, alongside good build quality. In regards to buckings/nubs......this is pretty much personal preference, I have tons of barrel/hop combos set up in various rifles at the moment. The ones that work for "me" are: ZCI 6.02mm barrel + ZCI Hop Chamber + maple leaf bucking with maple leaf omega nub. ZCI 6.02mm barrel + ZCI Hop Chamber + G&G green bucking (flah hopped) with Prommy purple tensioner. Tanio Koba Twist Barrel, this is in my custom Tippman M4, running standard nub and G&G Green bucking. considering the barrel is 200mm ish....it's great. For this build I've ordered various nubs/buckings and will update my experience with each. Where to start: First thing first, I needed to get the gun apart, which as I’m sure more of us know isn’t the most difficult of things to do on AR style guns. Stage 1 – Removing the gearbox: 1 – Remove front body pin, slide the upper receiver forward* and pull the charging handle back and slightly up in order to unhook it from the top catch on the gearbox. *If the gun is front wired, you’ll need to unclip these tabs in order to remove the upper as the cables will get caught. 2 – Remove the motor by undoing the 2 small screws on the base of the pistol grip. Once removed you will need to unhook the motor wires from the motor itself and then remove it entirely. Once removed you’ll need a long phillips screw driver to remove the screws which hold the pistol grip to the gearbox. 3 – Next remove your stock; once again you will need a long phillips screw driver to remove the retaining nut holding the stock onto the body/gearbox. Once you’ve undone this, you should be able to remove the stock tube. 4 – From here you should have a gun that looks like this. 5 – Next you will need to remove the gearbox from the lower receiver, which is a case of removing the rear body pin , small body pins and the mag release. 6 – Once the gearbox is removed from the lower, proceed to strip it, I won’t cover this part as there are loads of guides online. The only parts you’ll need are the trigger (I’m changing mine), trigger spring, spring guide, trigger board screw and safety cut off lever. Stage 2 – Installing the Polarstar Jack: 1 - Put the Jack into the front half of the gearbox, where the original cylinder was, there are small dimples on the Polarstar Jack which will line up with the gearbox shell. Simple 2 - Next you will need to install the new trigger board, which is a simple case of pressing it GENTLY into place, once lined up, proceed to secure it using the original screw you kept earlier. 3 - From here you will need to connect the wire from the Polarstar Jack onto the trigger board and also attach the harness, it should look like this once done. 4 - Put the trigger back, check to make sure that it's all in place correctly and the spring is secured. * will vary gun to gun, trigger to trigger. At this stage you may also need to put the spring guide back in, in order for the stock screw to have something to anchor to. * again it varies on the AR variant you have. 5 - Depending on how the airline from your jack is lined up, you may have quite the bundle of fun trying to close everything up lol. On my first Jack it laid flat and was easier to work with. This one however pushes up against everything. *A quick note at this stage, the Polarstar Jack is meant to be rear wired into the stock, however you "may" be able to front wire it or have the battery in the pistol grip and FCU in the stock tube. Our own Qlimax kindly sent me a custom made battery cable which should give me enough length the have the FCU in one place and the battery in another. 6 - Once you've worked out your cabling arrangements, reassemble everything again (part 1 in reverse), making sure not to pinch any of the cables as you do. The airline at this stage will be coming out the pistol grip. 7 - Make sure that you get the gearbox in and lined up nicely. This is achieved but making sure the gearbox is in a straight line as is the nozzle, you can check by reassembling the upper and making sure the nozzle enters the hop chamber straight and without the nozzle getting pushed all the way back. This part can take some time, it may involve tightning/losing either the stock screw or pistol grip screws, as both of these will affect how the gearbox sits in the receiver. The Externals: **Ongoing** So I've done the bulk of the build now, stuck all the externals on that I currently have, However I'm still waiting on a pistol grip, suppressor and charging handle. Externally I'm trying to set this up to be light and low profile. Hence the use of the Keymod rail (Brought from AK2M4, Here. Quality wise was just as good as the other ones you see from retailers at double the cost). I added the red trigger and red selector....because it just looked cool. That and the fact they were kindly donated from Beesting Airsoft as I thank you for using them to purchase my HPA bits from. I will be revisiting my other P* build and using the APS trigger provided by AK2M4 as it's a nice dark grey and will suit the worn look. The trigger was fairly annoying to install, purely because the return spring in the G&G was stupidly strong* and a pain to hold in place. *This will differ by gun. The fire selector was also a PITA to fit, as the small plate that sits on the inside of the gun, was too wide for existing hole, so I had to widen it a bit. Also to this day I'd never actually removed/installed a selector.......and to tell you the truth it was so stressful, I had to put everything down and walk away lol. Basically you have to pop the dummy selector which is pressed/glued in. Then use a small screw driver to remove a small screw which holds the plate to the selector. FOR THE LOVE OF GOD DO THIS ON A WHITE PIECE OF PAPER, there's a tiny spring and even smaller ball bearing which will drop out, roll onto the floor and disappear forever leaving you to raid through your spares box and remove them from another receiver you had laying around.......you have been warned. There's a handy video on removing the selector here. With the keymod rail I had to use some barrel washers (2) in order for everything to line up and be rock solid, I'm not going to explain installing it as it's pretty self explanatory Luckily for me the G&G MOD0 outer barrel lined up perfectly with the 12" Keymod rail, which means a suppressor will sit flush with the rail. I'm hoping to get a better suppressor on there shortly. (Payday). Once the charging handle turns up with the PSG-1 grip, I'll update with some more pictures. Hop and Barrel Combo (inc nub, bucking and chamber): **ONGOING** So I'm currently running the ZCI 6.02mm Stainless Steel Barrel and Polymer Prowin Hop Unit (Purchase from AK2M4) and for the moment I've just popped in a Maple leaf Bucking (75 degree) an Maples leaf Omega Nub (courtesy of Milspec Solutions, thanks again Ian). I'm going to be experimenting with other barrels and buckings etc to see which for give the best results for "Me". Here are some simple pointers though: A benefit of a tight bore barrel is less air (PSI) is needed to get the correct FPS. When using a wider bore barrel (6.08 - 6.20) you will have to up the PSI to accomodate for the large volume of air required. As an example in my first P* when running a 6.02, my PSI was set to 75 ish and I got 346 FPS on a spare TK barrel of the same length but wider bore (6.08?) I had to run 85 PSI. This basically means tighter barrel = Less PSI = Less Air Used = More shots per tank. and the opposite for wider barrels. The current argument is that for longer range, wide bores are better when used with HPA and set up correctly. However for air efficiency and short to medium range, TBB's are good. From my experience, it's all relative....at 150-200" any decent barrel, bucking, nub and chamber should perform alright. So from that perspective get a TBB a it's cheaper and more air efficient. However if you're going down the full DMR route and want that 250-300" range then get a decent wide bore. You'll have less shots per tank, but you'll be using a DMR on potentially higher FPS anyway, so 700 shots on a 13cl tank should be more than enough for semi auto. It really depends on how YOU play and the ranges that YOU engage people in. You won't need a wide bore, flat hop and all the time required for a full DMR if you're running and gunning at 100". In that case a decent bucking and barrel would be more than enough. In regards to flat hops, they are pretty easy, they work great and are worth the 15 minutes or so needed to do. Heres some buckings and nubs I've had success with: G&G Green and Purple Prommy pensioner or black for higher FPS Prommy purple bucking and tensioners The buckings AK2M4 sell work really well and due to the material they trim down well with a stanley blade, the prommy/G&G are "squidgy" and move alot without actually being cut lol Prommy blue sucks balls...end of. Madbulls are OK, but I noticed they didn't seal well once flat hopped. Falcon bucking, ripped at the mere idea of being flat hopped. Wouldn't use. Another note about flat hops is they are only as good as the barrel you put them in, so it's worth going for a good barrel. Another reason I used the ZCI barrels is they have a slightly wider hop window than some other brands, which is perfect for flat hopping as it allows for more contact. Setting Up The Polarstar Jack (FCU Settings): **TO BE UPDATED SHORTLY** The finished project(s): **May also include my 1st Polarstar Jack** Performance: **TO BE UPDATED SHORTLY** Common Problems, Simple Fixes: **'ll be adding to this after tonight lol* FAQ's: **TO BE UPDATED SHORTLY**, hopefully everyone can chip in and we can add to it HOW IT LOOKS TODAY: "updated"

Due to the fact I have posted some things already, I should just say Hello Everyone, I'm Kit a New Airsoft Player. If anyone could help me (proffrink Has helped me before!) I am looking for a M4 or Starter Sniper (Left Handed or ambidextrous) and places where I can get gear: Ammo Belts, Uniforms, ect.. And what is the best bb's? Bulldog seem to be everywhere? I heard there bad though? Or Should I scarp it and get a kit? ( I know, I'm Kit Looking for a Kit, I get it.) Thanks for everyone's help! Kit.

Wait a minute this didn't turn into the usual ukara shitstorm arguement... I'm gonna go look through zero in or UKAC to make sure I haven't quantum leaped or something.

Indeed not, that'd be manufacturing a RIF which is illegal unless you have a valid defence. On a completely unrelated topic, intending to use a RIF for airsoft is a valid defence and UKARA is only a way for retailers to verify this intent from the general public

NOT THAT YOU'D EVER THINK OF DOING THAT

I wouldn't sand paper unless you like the worn look or plan on respraying it. Powerspray will do the trick

Have a look at other guns other than the M4's. Be a little different.

I mean technically it's still manufacturing an RIF I guess but who cares really. Just don't go boasting about it to anyone.

Think of it as a bonus.

Don't worry about it. Ukara is there to protect sellers of rifs.

Fourth Update: Buckings, barrels, nubs etc

Yeah it's a new laylax one, I stumbled across it when ordering a replacement hopup for it from JP. Firesupport have the tan version in stock but hasnt seemed to have made it over here yet

I like that one to be fair... and they do it in multicam

Actually - yes. Let's say you fire a pyro at someone from a launcher. You hit someone a reasonable distance away and it goes off with the force of a MK5. You then throw an actual MK5 at someone again at a sensible distance and it just happens to go off when it reaches them. They both have the same explosive force and are both in a similar proximity to the target. So tell me - what is the difference in terms of risk of personal injury?

Cant comment on other sites or their insurers. Filmsim who operate our games have a set of specific rules for their use. We dont allow the powder ones or the impact detonation ones.

I think it may have something to do with someone in an office being concerned that one of these pyros could go off when they hit someone in the face. To be honest, I'm surprised any site can get these covered for use in the UK. Which is a shame because the idea of using a grenade launcher in airsoft to actually launch pyro is a cool idea

not looked at the other brands but i guess its where you have it mounted as to if it gets in the way?. my first game, a friend brought his along, attached somehow to the hire gun....and forgot it was on most of the time, then he wore it on his head, someone took a shot at it and broke the cover,....but he had fun and got some good videos at times. another guy at work takes his mountain biking and loves it, he has recommended to me to get one.... sorry not much help am i! haha

Review of the Warrior Assault Systems - DCS VS Recon DCS Plate Carrier Side by side with the Recon Plate Carrier - Both Available from - UKTactical - www.UKTactical.com Chase Tactical - www.ChaseTactical.com Amazing plate carriers suitable for every circumstance from Military and full law enforcement use to Training and Simulation. Both capable of holding full ballistic soft and hard armour. Very rugged and solid design with 500D material. If you have any questions just ask.

Well the game changer might be the new TM M4 thats around the corner. Personally I dont like ther AEGs but the GBB they do are awesome; my Mp7 for instance so it will be interesting to see what the M4 is like

We allow the use of these in our games. Some players now have the smokes as well which are now available.

Knowing some of the Russians that are going I can tell you this: you're going to be in for one hell of a fight #BolshForLife

We have our names on the back of fast helmets. And you should spot us, he is my older brother by 10 years, but imagine the movie twins and you should get the idea haha Both will be covered in mtp, plate carriers and m4 rifles :-)

Latest UK Tactical discount, £50 off a WAS Recon Plate Carrier (RPC) until midnight Wednesday 30 September. So £69.95 instead of £119.95

Hi guys and girls, New to the forum and to airsoft as well. Had a good look around on the forum already and found loads of useful posts\information. 2nd game booked for 11th Oct at F&O The Asylum in Kidderminster - looking forward to game number 3 to get UKARA sorted.

mmmmm.......don't let sittingduck see you on that site! messing around in the garden, kids toy really , just protect your face and eyes no matter what!!

Well, as you probably know, you'll have to get an 18+ to buy any BB gun for you, but with your parent/s' permission you could try airsoft at many sites: 14+ is the usual cut-off age for UKARA registered sites' insurance. So you could rent a decent-ish gun and face mask plus, at some sites, some form of camo gear, and get stuck in to way more fun than you can have with an underpowered plinker in your backgaredn... Of course some people feel the need to serve a couple of tours in the Back Garedn for the props... war is hell, maaaaaaaaaaaaaaan! [it's a long running in joke on here, into which you are privileged to be inculcated ]

I'm with the Russians so look forward to shooting you guys

That fore grip makes it look an awful lot nicer!

Still was not sure what was best so I ordered a Dye Precision I4 thermal paintball goggles from Amazon. £75, free P&P, and arrived the next day. Used the mask today at The Mall and had no problems with the lens fogging up, clear vision all day. Good field of view. It did get damp inside the mask with sweat but no condensation or mist on the lens. Although I could wear my glasses under the mask, they fogged up immediately so I took them off again.

<< from hull i mainly play at SHA, i have played at arena in grimsby (i was a member, i dont recomend, but they have changed it so it may be ok now ), LAC (great sites though combat zone is abit of a trek). Elsham is great, i cannot wait for the next game day!!! i have played 1 game at humber, and i was a little put off (it was over a year ago mind, and its a personnel thing) i have not played at headshot. for a complete beginner i would recommend SHA (slaughter house), if not for the fact that its close by, its because i play there on a serious note hire guns are available and not too expensive, games are varied and not too long etc its great CQB, but i am a little bias i think the only requirement is that you wear foot protection with ankle support (most sites require this). the only limiting factor of SHA is the fact that sniping is very very limited, it is a CQB site.

Actually - sorry. The FPS is irrelevant it's the Joules (energy) you need to worry about. 0.86g @ 150FPS = 0.89 Joules 0.2g @ 320FPS = 1 Joule Then you get shot in the face by a bolt action sniper running at 450FPS which would give you 1.87 Joules and no eyes.

Should clarify that with 'works for me in 50C heat while I'm sweating like a blind lesbian in a fish shop'

Nerf rockets are fin stabilised, TAG rounds are explosives. If you combine the 2 you are making a device capable of firing a fin stabilised explosive. This may well be safe enough but it is unfortunately rather illegal.

The Guns Airsoft guns are full size 1:1 scale replicas of real world firearms. They shoot small plastic balls, 6mm in diameter with approximately 1 Joule of energy. This energy level is very low when compared to most other shooting genres and is a safe energy for use with both paper and human targets. These replicas are commonly made entirely from plastic with only a few metal parts inside to increase the reliability and durability of moving parts. Construction quality varies wildly from model to model, as does the use of materials. Airsoft guns can be powered by electricity (from a battery pack inside the gun), by spring (the user manually compresses the spring before each shot) or using an expanding gas (refrigerant gas is commonly used from a reservoir either inside or outside the gun). The only thing airsoft replicas have in common with real firearms is their external size and shape. Inside, these models have totally different workings to the internal mechanism of a firearm, and the materials used for construction could not possibly withstand the explosive forces of a bullet that real weapons are designed to take. The Game Similar in essence to paintball, two or more teams are pitched against each other in different scenarios. Originally designed to simulate a war zone with more realism than can be achieved with paintball, these games are played on privately owned and insured sites dotted around the country. Normal Airsoft replicas are used and strict safety limits are imposed in order to make sure that everyone has fun and no one gets injured. A days play will usually cost you about £15 to £25, or possibly more if you choose to hire a weapon. This normally includes all games during the day and hire of eye & face protection. Some sites will even provide lunch. Airsoft Skirmishing is generally far cheaper than paintball. Airsoft games can have many scenarios and there are plenty of favourites. "Capture the flag", "hostage rescue" and "last man standing" are popular paintball games that have been adapted for airsoft. To play airsoft, you must be wearing the correct protective clothing. As with many other sports you're only safe if you are properly dressed. After all, you wouldn't expect to see Lewis Hamilton getting in to his racing car wearing his favourite t-shirt and no helmet! An Airsoft BB hit on bare skin will leave a small mark on the surface of the skin that will look and feel like a bee-sting. The more powerful the airsoft gun, the more it will hurt if you get hit, but with site energy limits in the UK being largely 1 Joule, there is no possibility of a BB causing a penetrative injury. With this in mind, airsofters wear eye & face protection, sturdy boots and tough clothing. For extra protection gloves and a scarf can be worn to give cover for your hands, neck and ears. For more information and guides please go to the guides forum here: http://www.airsoft-forums.co.uk/?showforum=7