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At this point it's starting to feel like every second buyer or seller is going to bust out a tale about how they're a Nigerian Prince working on the North Sea oil rig, but their very most trusted courier will collect or delivery much securely with no worry risks once you have by Western Union payment done.

Totally agree with this , really boils my piss when you see this especially on classified adds , “Only needs xyz part but doesn’t effect performance” well in that case get the fecking part and fix it then ! Also how can you say “doesn’t effect performance” if it’s an actual part and NOT just simply a bit of frippery bolted on to make the gun look more realistic ? if the manufacturers used it as part of the gun then odds are you probably do need it to be there for optimum performance ??‍♂️ Or another favorite of mine is “needs xyz part only a couple of quid” yes the part is only a couple of quid BUT no one has the part in stock and it hasn’t been in stock for a very long time ! Recently came across a TM recoil AK with a busted selector for sale and the seller had said that exact thing , so having spent over 18mths trying to get one my self as there pretty much out of stock everywhere , I said so on the add as the guy was asking near new money for it because it could still fire full auto but no safe or semi and I felt he was trying to pass it on to some unsuspecting chump .

Yep. A bit like trying to punt a car that keeps breaking down. Except you're asking almost full price for it. "Don't worry mate, it only needs a new clutch. And three tyres. And a cylinder head gasket. And the sumps leaking, but if you top it up every day you'll be fine. The timing belts due in a couple of thousand miles Oh, and the aircons pumped as well. And did I mention the back speakers are iffy and cut out now and again? Now you mention it, the tappets are a bit rattly. All easily fixed though, honest mate..." Anyone with half a brain would run a mile. Regardless if it's a 10 year old Honda Accord with the above maladies, a Boeing 737 with 100000 flight hours on the clock on the service of an African airline with a dubious maintenance regime, a washing machine that sounds like a Apache on takeoff or a Lancer Tactical M4 that is hopelessly pumped for *insert bullshit reason here*, if it's almost full RRP but in any state of unserviceability, you need yer heid looked at if it's what constitutes a "bargain" or some sort of attractive deal.

Yes, they are the main supplier of WE parts. They do have the 'split order' option for airsoft toys to get past border control ?

Scoff you may, There are two for sale on Zero Mong for the £3-400 mark wish I had the spare ££ to buy more of them ??? I need somebody to buy them so as I can sell mine for £500 ??

"Do I need a proper ghillie to be a sneaky sniper? Do I need to shell out for a full leaf suit and spend hours, days, weeks, months, years crafting it to perfection?" No. No you do not. One of the marshalls finally found me and snapped a pic of me being one with the bush. This is my lightweight, summer loadout that I've been using because my current ghillie isn't great in woodland as it's really a grassland ghillie and gets caught on literally everything (Worthing Airsoft has basically no grass). Rifle wrap is Sprinter Custom Ghillie and the hood is a Stich Profi Russian leaf hood. Haven't crafted anything onto either of them (the SCG stuff doesn't need crafting anyway...), just picked a good spot that didn't silhouette me and kept still

I'm not sticking my tip in there for anyone! Yub yub kersnip! On a slightly more serious note, I got a new set of connector leads for my charger (to dodge my dodgy soldering on the original set). As I used the Titan it a little on Sunday, I decided to top it up. I expected a good few minutes of charging to do that, so when it took *seconds* I suspected the worst. I got my battery monitor on it, and sent the readings off to Titan to confirm its charged and healthy. They replied very quickly. With S1 = 4.20v and S2 = 4.21v, I'm (allegedly) "fine and dandy". Which means the two or three hundred bb's it powered on Sunday were merely scraping the icing off a big 3000mAH cake!

Something I've seen people do with pauldrons is either add some scaffolding underneath to raise it up or wear a UBACS with Velcro on the sleeves underneath and stuck velcro to the underside of the pauldron. Maybe start following some cosplayers to watch how they build armour.

At the other end of the spectrum, I sometimes call hits only to realise a moment later it was likely some debris falling from the trees.

Might be the approaching tinkle of the 'festive' season and Little Scammer Johnny has been promised a new gat but Big Scammer Johnny can't source or afford one. Or I could just be a cynical old cop.

I used to do this kind of stuff for a living (many moons ago) and soldering is definitely a skill you can improve with practice. A temperature controlled iron is well worth it but get a decent one with enough wattage to solder the things you're trying to work with - 30W ish should do the job well. You want something that can heat the joint surfaces quickly enough that you're not going to get a "cold" joint but not so hot that you just melt everything! Lead free solder is fine as long as you use the right soldering tips and work at the right temperature. A solder sucker is worth it's weight in gold for those moments when you've been a bit cack handed and have to start again. Pre-tin the cable and connector before you start and get a decent blob of properly flowed solder on the connector. Hold the two together then apply some more heat with maybe a small bit of extra solder and away you go.

Finally remembered to take a pic while out. I'm definitely in the "premium" stage of my kit ? Though the ghillie is crafted, I'm using a Viper concealment vest base, some jack pyke stealth camo hide net, and some raffia and fake plants. I've had people walk right past me when I'm low to the ground. Using some jack pyke digicam soft shell clothing, which is decently warm and waterproof, and seems to be a good camo pattern though possibly approaching a bit dark for this time of year. Also a digicam balaclava that's been cut up and attached to my mesh mask. A simple kombat chest rig with their molle yoke for holding my knife and comms, and a hydro pack on the back. It's a nice lightweight kit with a surprising amount of space for things. Also a drop leg dump pouch, no idea what brand, I just bought it of some guy. Not pictured is the tactical bum bag, very handy I must say. Gun is a nuprol ak21, all the compression and hop parts have been changed, and it's getting new gears, motor, and mosfet soon. Pretty nice so far, it throws 0.36s out to a bit past 60m at 1j. Also a hawke 3-9x scope, really nice for woodland I find. I can track shots through narrow gaps in bushes easily, and the little rmr on top means I can be reasonably quick at close range. It's covered in jack pyke tough tape.

Anyone else noticed the preponderance of Wanted ads recently especially for (currently) Rare items such as GHKs where the seller name is something along the line of Smith 123 or Banana456...ie Some random word followed by a number string? Call me suspicious but they just don't sit right with me. Of course, it does give the opportunity to laugh at them saying they have £400 to buy your GHK off you.....

Oh airsofters never change. Some gems from yesterday: "Push forward!" - Screamed by the same few people who always seemed to be at the back of the crowd ? "I upgraded my gun to a 11.1 lipo" "I felt a hit from the side but took a look and there wasn't anyone there, so didn't call it. Then I got shot again and noticed there was someone hiding in a bush" Player: "Guys, I've just been hit by a sniper" Marshal: "Dead men don't talk" Player: "That doesn't count because I didn't say where he is"

I use this, it can be dissolved into isopropanol to make a liquid flux. If you are dissolving it you can make any strength you want. Clean up is also done with isopropanol after the solder is complete. Trying to clean it up with water is tedious as it's tree sap resin. On a good joint it'll often pool up well and can be flicked off with the tip of a scalpel. 60/40 is a good all rounder but 63/37 is true eutectic and doesn't have a mushy phase going almost directly from a liquid to a solid. 60/40 in contrast has a very short mushy phase that you have the be careful to observe on large parts that hold heat, When it's setting you have to make sure the parts can't move during this phase as it'll give you bad joints. The main difference in the 2 is 63/37 wets out a little better and gives a brighter joint. Both will eat copper based soldering tips on cheap irons. I use both solders, but on deans I tend to go for the 63/37 as the connectors have a lot of mass. Getting a big enough tip on the iron is also essential you need either enough power or enough heat and mass in the iron to be able to solder as quickly as possible without putting too much heat into the deans. If you don't get the power/heat/mass right you'll end up having to hold the tip for a long time, and the deans will begin to melt.

Got me scouring the SCG site. Guessing you have the autumn variant of this? http://sc-ghillie.pl/index.php?action=view&pid=65

everyone wants to win that lottery of a display case gun in good working order, or the "returned broken" gun with nothing more than a blown fuse. the reality ofc is half of a decade old gun that was modded for a failed project by the shop tech, then pillaged for all the awkward parts you can't get spares for and chucked in the boneyard section when the shopkeep needs to clear some space.

This time of year does see a surge in thieving conning scamming gits generally. Not surprised airsoft suffers the same. There's so many enthusiasts keen to spend their dough on the next best thing, and I can't be the only one who finds himself daily browsing retailers eyeing up new gnus or tac gear thinking ooh that would be nice despite having zero need or use for any of it. The saying about a fool being eager to part with his cash comes to mind. Airsoft is particularly bad IMO due to the whole "boneyard" concept pushed by retailers, selling fucked gear at almost full RRP under the guise of a "bargain" that "just needs repair". If it "just needs xyz" then feckin fix the thing before selling it... firstly its fucked/not to standard, secondly its not a "bargain" and thirdly it sets a standard for unscrupulous private sellers to con gullible keen idiots out of their hard earned.

Now that's good camouflage.

Yes, that should be good enough. Temperature controlled irons are much better as you can bering the melt temperature up to the point that you are heating the solder, wetting the joints and then creating a solid joint. Unregulated solder irons can cook off the flux too fast as part of the process of flux is to be heated to errode and clean the dirt and allow the solder joint to wet properly. I used to use an unregulated iron and it was the source of many a dry joint or improper wetting, they are fine for large parts that are going to sink a lot of heat and where joints are not PCB based or on thin wires.

I think I'm going to leave the belly exposed a la classic Doomguy (minus the six-pack and torn shirt). I'm going to integrate a belt into the lower section across the cutaway anyway to attach a couple of mag pouches for a nice low-drag, simple rig, so there will be a modicum of protection there. Also considering a drop leg MOLLE panel for extra storage (plus thigh coverage...) if required. Have been putting a lot of thought into the shoulders, in short I not sure what to do yet however it'll be a case of suck it and see. As you say I can hack bits away if there's too much in the way. Although i am rather liking the squared off wedginess of it at present... Coming together nicely for now. I'm not looking for too slick a look, I'd like it to look a bit used and worn in so not fussed about the odd rough edge here and there. At the end of of day it's going to get shot at repeatedly and will end up covered in welts, holes and lodged BBs which will provide authentic damage and, if necessary, I'll just patch over it and it'll look even more worn... Eezer

Best all round soldering iron you can get is one of these https://www.tooled-up.com/weller-8100udk-expert-soldering-gun-kit/prod/12425/https://www.tooled-up.com/weller-8100udk-expert-soldering-gun-kit/prod/12425/ I never use my full soldering station anymore as these are so good.

You can put in an articulated belly plate hanging off of the torso to allow bending over. I still reckon you'll have issued with it rising up when raising your arms: generally you'd keep it to a narrow strip over the shoulders, and then articulate shoulder pauldrons off of it. However, you won't know until you try and you can always modify it later.

That's what I use, or a rebranded equivalent. Works for me, and had a decent variety of tips. That's a decent price for that whole package, everything you need to get going, although a set of helping hands... helps.

Afternoon fellow warriors. A few days off, so having done assorted chores around the house, decided to do some more work on the armour. Dremelled away most of the rough edges and cut out space for arms and belly to avoid any stormtrooper-esque mishaps. I wonder if that's why they are so bad at shooting? Anyway, some progress today. Next step will be starting to glue things together and shape, which should prove fun.

Also good to get is a set of thermal sinks for small parts that carry heat, you can get stainless and aluminium, they are like tweezers... with that, a set of insulated tweezers to help when soldering and one of these soldering iron tip cleaners is invaluable... Dip your tip in the rosin and then the cleaner and a nice clean tip....

I solder Deans with the connectors paired together, and with the far terminal clamped in a pair of surgical forceps to help with heat distribution and dissipation.

A new Crye shirt from these very forums !

Mil-Tec plate carrier mate. Will tuck right in, trust me ? + nothing there pal haha

I am in love with a terrible gun, AGM AEG MG42 and I shall simp and slave for my gun untill I stop with aisoft (if that day ever comes) we're getting married soon and she drained my wallet again because we cant have feeding issues now can we.

It’s definitely a skill that you can improve on, I used to be shocking but after a few months of practice my solder joints are now neat and strong! Patience is the key!

I've started using those as well. Went with XT60's for ages, but I find deans easier to re-use. The Amass ones are easier to grip but they're also easier to pull apart anyway (but still hold well). I still heat shrink the connectors though. My soldering skills are massively crap too (as in, "how is the table on fire and the connectors have melted but the fucking solder is still a solid!"), but an adjustable temp one has helped a bit.

Oh yes, those are nice. Haven't seen those before. They're slightly bigger than the cheapo Deans connectors but nice grip surface.

I've got some heat shrink tubing already (came with some cheap extra Deans connectors I bought), but with these AMASS connectors it's not needed, the plastic shroud takes care of keeping the bare parts of the wires isolated: edit: 5 pairs male / female connectors for £7 https://www.amazon.co.uk/Non-slip-T-style-Connector-Wireless-Adapter/dp/B08RTWV8G5/ref=sr_1_8

You should get some heat shrink tubing Great for covering and protecting joints. Also good to keep two or more wires together.

ITT: people who'd have an aneurism if they saw me soldering

I do think the new BTP camo works better now we're in the autumn, even the desert version would do a better job blending in with the golden leaves that are all over the ground and the low trees. Dark stuff was less effective and sticking out a bit more than usual yesterday... In the morning I was wearing a black camo UBACS style undershirt, and I wished I'd bought the multi-cam version instead. I definitely don't need stuff slowing me down. That would = stopped A massive shout-out to this chap, who did the WW2 load out properly... He even lit up a pipe during the rest/reload breaks for the full effect Tally-ho!

It's a bit more tricky than that, this is a good indication though:

Bargain-bin S95 DPM + cheap hat and gloves off Wish + used/boneyard Viper skeleton harness. ESS goggles, Tigris mesh mask. Kombat UK universal holster. A couple of SA80 pouches, and a cheapo fast mag holder for when I'm in a hurry (Got 4 of those on the way from that there China) Works alright! Just wish the DPM could hide my belly a bit better

Lead free solder is a big problem, mainly because it produces poor joints and what is refereed to as dry joints. Here are some fluxes I use. Kalifornia - cleaning the tip of the iron. Made from real ROSIN... Pasta do Lutowania - which is a paste in a tin that is made out of the Kalifornia stuff WODA Lutownicza - for very difficult metals like the ali wires that chinesuim sellers palm the west off with... Topnik TK83 - great for any wire and PCB, the one I use most of. AG Kwas Lutowniczy - a silver based flux or flux for silver, I use this on difficult metals that WODA Lutownicza or Topnik TK83 doesn't work with. IN ALL CASES NOTE THAT THESE FLUXES REQUIRE SPECIAL HANDLING as they are all toxic and are corrosive and a couple are going to pose a serious respiratory problem as in lung damage, so you need to be in a well ventilated space with a fan blowing the fumes outdoors or under a soldering hood or a face mask with open ventillation. ALSO WEARING GLOVES as they are corrosive besides pretty toxic. Suggest that you also buy LEAD SOLDER, it is still available but be careful as many chinese sellers hook people with LEAD SOLDER when its actually the lead free stuff. What you need is the Sn60Pb40 mix for a good all rounder. Solder iron... what do you use? If its your common or garden variety type like you see in home depot or B&Q or similar, then you should buy yourself a temperature controlled one, I got one on eBay for £12 and goes up to 450 degrees Celsius. Many irons do not have great thermal dynamics and can be too hot and you risk cooking the board layers or a component or even unintentionally introducing too much heat and some SMD's may have "Floated" from their posts and now produce a short or bad signal. Temperature control is as important as soldering technique. Good luck sorting it out...

Filmsim at Tuddenham today. Pretty simple domination and timer based games today. TBH, it felt more like a standard skirmish than the usual filmsim, but fun nonetheless. Attended with the lad, his mate and an old friend that has not played for over a year due to covid restrictions etc. In the morning we had a standard but very clear safety brief. As a rule, these are of a rare kind. What they say they do usually actually happens. Chrono well before kick-off, so any issues with fps can be dealt with, and spare rifs can be fetched. Nice clear game brief delivered with a bit of humour, simple rules and a flashy magnetic backed map of the area/overhead photo thing. Whatever it is, it made knowing what do where easy. Game stared almost on time, which is nice. The armband team attacked a pair of positions with the aim of setting off a timer. I managed to run to one timer fairly early and pressed the wrong button, because despite the clear game brief, I have a crap memory. Once the timer had been correctly started, we moved to the next objective. With the first completed, I managed to work my way to the second timer. About twelve far pluckier previous attempts had failed, but these had led to the opposition giving away their positions. This was only possible due to some good teamwork and pretty clear communication, which is impressive for a random group of strangers I think. Whatever, the case, I was hit about five feet from the timer with the marshal counting down from ten. At the count of eight someone threw themselves through the hail of BBs and started to medic me, until the penny dropped... he realised that I was shouting to ignoe me and get the timer, which he dived at just in time for the countdown to end, and we lost. Seriously, it was hysterical. His seriously nice gesture used up too much precious time, the game had been great fun and no one seemed to mind taking the L. The next game turned around and was even more fun than the last. Having sussed the best spots that had blatted us previously, we swiftly set up position in them. An inability to stop talking by a couple of the players meant that we were swiftly discovered. I retook the position despite heavy fire from the lad whose mouth had lost it, as we had split up after respawning, and he had forgotten what I was wearing I think. The opposition soon played a really simple but clever series of flanking moves which almost surrounded us as we defended the timer. The amount of plastic flung was prodigious, we stuck out until the end. I think the morning was a draw overall? We may have lost, I don't really remember, if I knew at all. Lunch was too long, as it always is. Half an hour would be ample, but that may not allow enough time to drive to the nearest Mackie D's for ultra shit food. Being a cut above such behaviour, we had broccoli frittata, pork pies (with jelly), cold sausage and green tea, as per Healthy Airsofter's thread. Loads of protein and no carbs (OK apart from the crisps). If this carries on I may end up shopping in Waitrose or something. The afternoon was played in the village. This was a really great scrap over a chess timer type deal. At the close of play the timer in the shipping containers had about two minutes difference, which showed what a good scrap had developed around it. The second timer in the buildings was 100% held by the other side. Fuck knows what happened there. The turn around was well played and the fight over the containers even better. I was getting a bit knackered by now. Lack of sleep made me sluggish, but a new rif performed well, despite the inevitable hop setting palaver as it settled in. A new toy always makes a game good I reckon, especially when it turns out to be a snappily sharp little number. The loaned out and ever reliable G&G CM had a minor fit, it failed to fire as if the battery was totally flat, until I reminded the lad to select auto, as the 'fet is set to one shot burst. In semi it just sulks. Some really good gameplay saw the buildings well contested, with the front of the village lost and retaken by each side numerous times. A plethora of bangs were thrown. Smokes were slung. The teams ended up well mixed up as players went forward and showed some really spirited gameplay. Some moaning about none hit taking as ever, but TBH I think that such stuff usually gets raised when players get hacked off at losing each or nearly each game, which I think the banded team did. It seems odd to me to value winning over decent gameplay but there we go. Thoughts at days end. With wet foliage all damp deep green, russet and hues of autumn gold, DPM is still ten times better for Northern Europe than MTP. There are too few women involved in the sport, in winter when the girlfriends stay at home and only us fools still play in all weathers, it really stands out. There were far less kids too. The games themselves could have been less skirmishy and more complicated (says he who forgot which button to press). The marshals did an excellent job. Airsoft is an excellent way to catch up with old friends. The boy's friend borrowed a sniper and used one for the first time; he loved it. It's an idea to change what we do to sometimes perhaps, to learn how to enjoy the sport in new ways. Due to laziness, I used my old webbing comprising a large ammo pouch for spare BBs, speedloader and a mag, one fastmag, one holster and a water bottle, all in various camos. Radio on the webbing and what else do you need? Sorry for the ramble, just sharing a few thoughts arrived at after a post game Bloody Mary or two, sore back banished, cares forgotten for a while, laughs laughed and muscles aching slightly. Hope you enjoyed your airsoft as much today. It certainly beats a run around the local park for exercise.

Yep, if wiggling cables makes the vibration occur then there's a dodgy connection somewhere. The problem is finding it. If you'll be doing more soldering its worth getting some soldering flux. It helps the solder flow better and makes is so much easier to get a good join.

Austrian Box ready for tomorrow. (Sunday 21st)

Almost done with this build. Just waiting for an r-hop patch and a longer rail for the bottom so I can move the grip to the front(which will need to be cerakoted. ugh.) Edit: P90 style sling works a treat on the stock!

At Military Odyssey Last Weekend in my 2006 era Timor patrol kit DPCU Land125 cut uniform, DPCU Land125 Assault vest and various pouches, DPCU armour vest, Early Camelback (owned since 2004), Land125 drop leg panel with 40mm pouches, Redback Terra Boots. Rabintex 303 helmet with: DPCU cover, NSEAS type 12 Mount, TAGir strobe, ESS goggles, Rifle is a JG based AUG with various mods. Very rare GB-Tech 203 mount kit.

Pencott wildwood loadout plus a husky ?

All Tigered up at Gunman Camp Bravo last weekend (Aug 15th)

Ghost: HK416A5 V2 w/ upgraded internals:

I’ll spare the full run down unless someone actually wants it, but I officially think I’m ‘there’ in terms of my ideal kit. Took a lot of trial and error to get there, but extremely happy with where it’s ended up. Swapping between AK and AR is a simple case of changing placard on the chest rig.