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TRP back from the Cerakoters after doing some modifications

Another awesome day at Reforger, switched it up and did some different game modes this time - Infected, Juggernaut and Sniper Ambush - and I got to see a few new areas of the site. Had a blast in the last game, running completely out of BBs in the last few seconds in a final mad dash to the truck though sniper fire. Got a complimentary mag fill from @GAMBLE (cheers dude). Player conduct seemed pretty good on the whole, bar the odd grumble about hit taking (I get the impression this is par for the course). Someone got booted off site for something but I didn't see what. I switched to the G36 after lunch, and it behaved well enough, though the optic I have at the moment isn't suitable (another facog is on the way), and I found that gripping the magwell had a tendency to catch the mag release on the m4 converter. Something I'll have to train myself on. Tbh I think I prefer the ergonomics of my m4 so that will remain my primary primary for now. My entire body aches and it'll probably take me a week to recover. Bring on that next game.

Read the room, dude...

Hi fella and welcome to the good ship Afuk. ? Check out our friendly info warrior @GAMBLE. He has a tube channel full of information for everyone really. A laid back and informative fun channel from which you will get some good advice and insight. I have specna arms,ares,g&g and we RIF's and not had probs with any really. But then again there will be others that will have had nothing but trouble with them. It's all a bit of a gamble really. Best thing is to read as much as poss and make your own decisions. It helps if you like the look of a particular gat to start with. Have a look on playairsoft.uk for sites near you. Advice for a newbie? get a second job....you are gonna need it!? Just have fun,listen and call your hits ?? regards

Trying to prove your internet worth by trying to belittle an old person is quite sad. My 3 year old painted that red dot if you’ve not been sad enough to scroll that back far through my posts ?

Care to back that up up with evidence? Just like any other convictions It appears your knowledge of the law is almost as bad as your knowledge of physics

Nah, it’s all on there it’s just in the ‘stowed’ position. Because the Unity mount sits so high their mag mount has room to stow beneath the optic rather than off to the side. Just keeps everything nice and streamlined. This is what it looks like flicked up ready to use.

I'd say some teenager holster-juggling his Glock in front of his mum's mirror for hours on end might give it a close run.

Had too much time to myself today for the first time in forever, got bored and gave the NGRS the same treatment as the MWS. Looking forward to it getting worn in, magnifier/mount not painted because I’ve barely used them since buying them so toying with selling and that’s a lot of ££ worth RS of mount that painting would hit the resale value of should I decide to.

Friends and myself used irons for 3+ years without an issue, both in CQB and large open areas. Only reason we really got optics was to help in the really dark areas of our local cqb. We've done some home made 'drills' (in quotes because they were more for cheap fun than to get more opscherater) with one very similar to the presidente one (going from google description) and didn't really have any issues with hitting a5 targets. But then I'll always advocate iron sights because I think they look very cool indeed

A visual point of reference means fuck all if its not pointing where it’s meant to be…but you must be right because I’m so old and your so operator. Go back to your teenage bitching about the MWS system being crap cause you broke it. EDIT for spelling and to apologise for thread de-rail.

I'll say. The M900 is a total unit. Sold mine a while back in favour of a scout light. It's still a great bit of kit though.... looks odd on an mp5 I must say ?

Yesterday's little skirmish.

Instead of spamming the "How did your Airsoft game day go" thread every week, I'll keep my video posts to here. I find a lot of Airsoft gameplay videos can be a bit dull, so I try to keep mine short music video style. Hope you enjoy, and I'm open to feedback.

i had the Detonics years ago which was always good fun but this little v10 is just right , anyone got a good source for officer sized grips ?

It's certainly not the worst take on Rhodesian baby poop I've ever seen.

This’ll be me done spamming the thread for now. Found a repro RC can while looking for something else so got that sprayed up as well (and modded a tracer to pop in there). Then looked at the MWS propped up against the wall and had a sudden ‘I guess I like what I like’ moment. Reject modernity, embrace tradition. Embrace both.

I mean, anything you're using to aim with needs to hold zero or you won't be hitting whatever your aiming device of choice is aiming at? If you're using something to 'acquire a target' and you're shooting half a metre to the left of your laser mark, particularly large targets aside, you're missing. That aside, the biggest issue I've ever had with irons is eye/facepro making getting down on them much more of a pain than the 1.7"+ mounts that I'm now used to. There are certainly better and worse examples of irons, but they're all usable... especially if that's all you've ever used.

After years of faffing about with various load outs, and buying various kydex I finally bought myself a Deadly Customs shooters belt to put all my kydex on. Multicam black belt. Two moscart shell holsters. Four KWA QRF Mod2/Krytac vector mag holsters. Dump pouch. Cyma M052 holster. Viper utility pouch. Hi capa mag holster. WE Hi capa holster. EG MK5 Thunderflash holster. Two EG WP40 smoke holsters. No game for me this weekend, so next weekend will be the test.

heavy ?

Work in progress SD, not the most authentic but will do the job, makes fitting batteries in easier the handguard is held on by a 3D printed cap which is then pressed against by the printed suppressor. Underneath it all is still the original gun with the tri-lug and the adapter it comes with, with an Acetech Blaster M module in front of it. Will have the suppressor made in metal in the future.

Finally got my hands on a TAC41. New scope to follow, for now I’ll use the scope that’s normally on the MWS. Please ignore the RMR, I’m too lazy to take it off ?

I detailed my knack in this thread. You need something long to push it back fully into the cylinder so you can lock it back with the bolt locking pin. This'll hold the piston back while you screw the cylinder head back on

My "iron" sights are hacked out of EVA foam, and my new secondary is a revolver. Oh, yeah, HFC HG-132 arrived today. Fun, in very short bursts. The plastic grip isn't secured that well, and the claimed energy levels for the 4" barrel version are hugely optimistic. I'm seeing 0.5J, barely above AEP levels. Consistency is meh too, not even 12" at garage ranges, making the adjustable rear sight a bit of a gimmick. Apparently it's got a fixed hop but whether it does, and what it might hop, remains to be discovered. Still, it's a revolver, it's a little better than a springer, apparently very gas efficient, and you can load from the front of the cylinder fairly quickly rather than dumping the shells. Any hit with it should be a "Yass!" moment.

i used to think very much that way, until a couple of occasions i chose/was forced into running irons only and found myself doing surprisingly well. even if the irons are off you still have a reasonably repeatable reference point for where your shots are going, which is close enough for the ranges we play at.

Consecutive previous content part 2-Ussli.com C、How to choose the motor Through the above study, we have a general understanding of the motors used by airsoft, so how to choose a motor according to our own needs? Let's first understand the relationship between motors, gears, and RPS. RPS=(motor no-load speed/60/gear ratio)*motor efficiency coefficient The no-load speed of the motor is generally based on 11.1V. Below 25,000 is a low-speed motor, 25,000-35,000 is a medium-speed motor, 35,000-45,000 is a high-speed motor, and above 45,000 is an ultra-high-speed motor. Gear ratio: The gear box is a set of deceleration gears in terms of the original working quantity. For example, 18:1 means that the motor rotates 18 times, driving the gearbox to complete one shot. The most common ones are 18;1,16:1 and 13: 1. Of course, there are also 12:1, 32:1 and DSG 9:1, TSG 6:1 and other specifications. (I will write a separate article about the choice of gears to introduce) Motor efficiency: When the motor is running with load, the speed will be lower than that with no load. The actual load efficiency value is related to the performance and load of the motor itself. Generally speaking, the motor efficiency of the motor with strong magnetism and high torque can usually reach 0.8-0.95 , The middle torque can reach 0.7-0.8, and the low torque is below 0.7 (if the load is large, the motor efficiency will be reduced, the same motor may be slightly lower in the high FPS gearbox) For example, we use a 22000 rpm original motor with 18:1 gear, and the estimated efficiency is 0.8. In theory, we can get (30000/60/18)*0.7=14.2RPS If you want to increase the RPS to about 20, there are several ways. Method 1 is to use the original motor to replace the 13:1 gear (22000/60/13)*0.7=19.7RPS. (Note that this method may have problems and will be discussed later) Method 2 is to replace the ordinary motor with 30000 rpm, for example (30000/60/18)*0.7=19.4 RPS Method 3 Replace the 16:1 teeth and use a high torque 22000 rpm motor, for example (22000/60/16)*0.85=19.5RPS We can see that the easiest way is to replace the motor with a suitable speed, because the replacement of the motor is the most convenient and fast, only need to remove two grip base screws (V3 gearbox generally needs to remove one more screw), it is easy to replace by yourself. To replace the gear set, it is necessary to disassemble the gearbox and adjust the teeth again, which is very cumbersome and difficult for many players. Of course, there are certain limitations to adjusting the performance of the gearbox only by replacing the motor, but for beginners, replacing the motor does not require opening the gearbox, which is the easiest performance modification to get started. As mentioned above, one problem with method 1 is that if a 13:1 gear is used, it is very difficult for many low-torque motors to pull the spring, and it will be necessary to replace the medium-torque or high-torque motor. It also depends on the spring used. Knowing the basic principle of matching the motor, we can choose the appropriate motor according to different needs I have compiled a principle that I follow when helping my teammates modify the rifle for your reference. Rookie: bought an original rifle, and if want to simply improve the RPS and FPS, youcan choose a cheap high-speed motor and spring (note that the low-torque motor is not recommended when the FPS exceeds 300). If the gears are nylon gears, do not use a high-torque motor, excessive torque may cause a sharp decrease in the life of the nylon gears. If you want to upgrade to a high-torque motor, first upgrade the gear to a metal gear. Want to change FPS, after replacing the large spring, upgrade the high-torque medium-speed motor to ensure that the motor has enough torque to efficiently pull the spring. Want to change RPS, upgradea high-torque and medium-high-speed motor, and match it with a small gear ratio suitable for 16:1 or 13:1 gear to obtain the required RPS. Note that even if the FPS value is not high, we do not recommend the use of low-torque motors, because high-RPS gearboxes usually use metal gears. Due to the weight of the gear (The hollow design of the advanced gear will reduce the weight by 20%), the high speed and the large inertia, the braking performance of the low-torque motor is relatively poor after the trigger is released, and the inertial firing will still occur after the trigger is released. The high-torque motor has stronger braking performance, the inertial firing situation will be improved a lot, the feel of the entire shooting will be improved a lot, and the response time and heat of the first shot will also be improved. Gearbox with ETU(electronic trigger unit):Because the ETU has requirements on the torque and braking performance of the motor, the ETU needs to be matched with a medium or high torque motor. ETU users can be divided into three categories: Listen to the old players sayingETU is good, follow the trend and use ETU without thinking: Just choose a medium or high torque motor according to FPS and RPS. In fact, such people have not yet realized the difference in feel between mechanical switche and ETU, and even if they use the best motors, they may not understand the difference.。 Mainly play AUTO, install ETU in order to improve the shooting feel (smooth brakes): It is recommended to usethe medium-high-speed, high-torque motors, which can get faster RPS and comfortable feel. The higher the torque motor, the quicker the starting response, the faster the braking, and the lower the heat generation. Those who mainly play SEMI, especially SQB players: using a high-torque motor is an entry-level configuration. For players who play in the back row and need single-shot firepower to suppress, the motor needs to continuously start the brakes, which requiresa certain performance and also heat generation will dramatic increase. At this time, it is recommended to use a brushed motor with the highest torque and high temperature resistance magnetic tile. If the budget is sufficient, you can consider upgrading to a brushless motor. However, a factor needs to be considered at this time, because the circuit logic of some ETUs may conflict with the circuit control logic of some brushless motor motherboards, and incompatibility may occur during work. Long-term use will affect the performance of brushless motors. Compatibility needs to be tested in advance when choosing a brushless motor. The brushed motor and ETU will not have this problem, the biggest problem is the wear of the carbon brush. Since the motor heating caused by the ETU brake is much higher than that of the mechanical switch, it is recommended to use a low-heating and high-temperature resistant high-torque motor. Players who only hang the rifle on the wall or play at home：it is the same with or without a motor. Players needextreme violent RPS and FPS：Currently only brushless motors can meet your challenge of extreme performance. Knowing so much, we can basically draw a conclusion: without considering the budget, the priority order of motor selection is always: brushless > high torque > medium torque > low torque As the saying goes, you get what you pay for, and this can also be intuitively fed back from their prices. The brushless motor has the highest price, the higher the torque motor, the higher the price, and the lower the torque motor, the cheaper the price. Of course, there are some bad manufacturers who falsely standardize the performance and pull the price, and it is possible to buy products whose performance does not meet the standard. However, Cheap motors are basically impossible to have good overall performance. Finally, summarize several parameters for selecting the motor: Tips: TPA only represents the number of turns of the coil, but the performance and diameter of the copper wire of the coil are not the same, the quality of the silicon steel sheet of the rotor core of the motor is also different, and the performance of the final coil and the rotor are not necessarily the same. TPA can only be compared under the premise of the same wire, and it is only suitable for reference. The above sharing is only personal use experience, just for your reference, if there is anything unprofessional or rigorous, please point out.

TM MWS almost finished & has been a pain, but loving the result. Accidentally bought a red forward assist and mag release, but it is kind of growing on me. Also want a spare 5 - 6" handguard. Unintentionally became a Strike Industries build. Any suggestions on a colour for cerakote?

Hey, so I'm making this thread purely for discussion on where and why you mount your torch on a rifle. At first I was mounting mine on the right side of my rail as this is what I saw everyone do. I have since moved mine to the bottom for, which for me, is a good reason. I noticed when it was mounted to the right the shadow from the barrel obscured the light and when 'pieing' doorways etc that shadow were quite often in the way and hiding what I was trying to illuminate. Since mounting to the bottom I find this has eliminated this and sent the shadow way up above my point of interest. Though now I have an after market longer rail, I have noticed the shadow is much smaller as the torch is further forward. How do you mount yours and have you experienced such hindrances? Is there a reason you mount it the way you do or is it just from mimicking. Curious on thoughts.

I have already done both of them things mate, but thank you for the reply

Sorry I missed you guys today, had something come up. Intriguing to know what got the guy kicked off, they seem very on the ball at Reforger, which is great.

Spec Ops down at Olney, just outside MK is worth a visit... Its small, friendly and well run, but the woodland site is currently shut due to the council blocking its use at the moment. However a new indoor CQB site will be open shortly. I'll let you know when there's more info

I've formed the impression that there are people who only turn up in order to stand around at respawn pissing and moaning to anyone who will listen about all the CHEETARS that they dumped three mags into. So when I took a gun hit yesterday, I put my helmet on it and held it up above cover to give them something to shoot at and really complain about. Good, I'd like to see it to happen more often. If sites punted the worst player every day, what a hobby this would be.

Cheers for that, really interesting, I’ll check later which is the better sealing one, but agreed, could definitely be an update, Marui seem to be really good at that

Hahah get a life you wanker.

New video up on the channel, this time the review of the Bespoke airsoft ACL SAI 17. It's shockingly good.

But at that point, why wouldn't you just crank the turrets so that point of reference is zero'd? Regarding holding zero, a lot of the clone shite out there struggles with it on GBBRs thus rendering the 'repeatable' part in the point of reference moot. Which is why the question marks around not caring about holding zero on something that was specifically put on a RIF for aiming with are coming from.

I don’t think you understand what a “tac laser” as you call it is for…everything should be zero’d. I like the way you LARP bro!

With a rifle yes, although i do know what you mean with regards to pistols- far enough away where you can't instinct fire but too close to be able to take your time aiming. My solution to those engagements is to respawn

Last weekend's game

Hi, ALL! ? Managed to get this whole charity game on camera, here’s part 2! ? Doing the best with what I have, enjoy it for what it is! ??? ?GAMBLE?

Looking at how my loadout has changed in a year. Incredible to think the channels has been running longer than a year!

You take that picture in the local community shitter ? That floors the spitting image of the public bog in the town I grew up in ! ?

Bought it as piss take as much as anything but turns out it’s an absolute corker of a gun and I love using it ! ? PS if she does decide she enjoys the game I can set you up with some pink P90 mag pouches if you want as I’ve been making and mod’ing pouches , slings , holsters , and what not as a side hobby for a good few yrs .?

If your selling anything Airsoft related & I contact you, feel free to tell me to FUCK RIGHT OFF?, I've got too much stuff already, literally a ton or more, don't feed my addiction ?

Tupperware party ?

Finally got my Speedcat slide back from the anodiser

My MWS from todays game.

Perfect for GBBR's too. ?

First TM on the channel, and the subject of a high performance build, the sublime hi capa 4.3 Tactical Custom makes an appearance. Watch this thing become a beast.