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Showing content with the highest reputation on 05/12/22 in all areas

  1. At least he's nice enough to warn us about scammers while trying to scam us
    5 points
  2. Make near all your money disappear for apparently no return on it ? ?
    5 points
  3. Tee hee. Just seen this on Twatter. It's both hilarious and appalling how many of the replies are apparently sincere "Rrrraragh MUH Secund Amundmant rites! Molton Labia!!!!!!" Even after having the obvious pointed out, it's "MUH PIONT STILL STANS!!!!"
    4 points
  4. Busted and took it on the chin sounds like a film I watched last night
    4 points
  5. And still asking £250 for a defective example of a toy that's £200 new, in stock at Patrol Base. I wonder if the seller calls hits to his solid brass neck.
    4 points
  6. A sports therapist who lives near me has just been arrested for drug dealing. Just goes to show that you never really know a person. Five years I've been going to see him and I never even knew he was a sports therapist.
    4 points
  7. To be fair to him he's taken it on the chin and dropped the price to £110
    3 points
  8. With the caveat that this is just my own sub-cult beliefs, and our RC chums know much more: I buy whatever brand of lipo battery is the cheapest, as I'm now fairly convinced that anything sold for airsoft tends to be junk cells anyway, and I'm actually an advocate of buying twice rather than buying "quality". Charger, I'd only go SkyRC and the groupthink suggests the S65 (I have the much older B6 which works, but the S65 is the modern equivalent). I've rewired to Deans because it's clearly a better connectors than mini-Tamiya. However, if I were doing it all over again, I'd probably go straight to XT60, on the understanding that then I'd have to keep re-wiring to that since RC form factor batteries with XT60 tend not to fit in airsoft toys. Deans is easy enough to solder onto, just be super-strict about only cutting then re-soldering one battery wire at a time. I am not dead yet, and I treat my lipos with disdain bordering on contempt. I can usually just about get a full day out of a single 1200-1400mAh cell, but I'm not trigger happy. However, I generally switch at lunch, and when I've forgotten, I've occasionally run out at the end of the day. I'd stick with 7.4v as I get brutal overspin and double-shots on all my M100 / ~1.1J AEGs with 11.1V. I only run 11.1V in one gun with an anti-brake / pre-cock mosfet, and in my M140-ish 1.8J DMR. I'd always go with the biggest, highest capacity and C rated cell that I can fit. Never make the battery the limiting factor. The exception to the quality, durability and capacity cheapskate arguments above might be lithium-ion batteries, e.g. Titan Power, rather than lithium-polymer. I haven't dabbled in them, they cost more than I'd prefer to spend, but they claim higher capacity, and we've seen owners say they've got multiple days out of them after forgetting to recharge.
    3 points
  9. Tackle

    Ear pro for CQB

    Its not helped by the fact that, the Mall for example, had marble type polished floors in the main concourse, bit slippy at the best of times, especially in the couple of spots at one end where the roof leaked & there were a couple of puddles sometimes. Stick hard wee balls on that marble, a recipe for slips & slides. Thankfully most off the off concourse areas were rough concrete & carpet, as I've found to be the case at most cqb sites I've attended, much more forgiving when bb's are added. Footwear will make a big difference too, old school stiff soled boots such as dms etc will skim across bb's like ice, the more modern kit that has a bit more give & feedback copes much better in cqb.
    3 points
  10. ... until we start 'upgrading' it ?
    3 points
  11. More like a sticky ending ?
    2 points
  12. Try soaking white ones in beetroot juice. Stains the fuck out of my white t shirts ?? Regards
    2 points
  13. I've just been admonished with XT30, it's still too tender to talk about.
    2 points
  14. Easy tiger....don't drag me into this. Whilst I sometimes might make a tongue-in-cheek comment, I try not to disrespect fellow members personally, especially those who have put a lot of time and effort to help people on here over many years. Can you say the same?
    2 points
  15. Of course they would. Are you new here or something?
    2 points
  16. Well, that's no fun, what a selfish git.
    2 points
  17. As above really... * Good makes for batteries: KongPower, Turnigy Charger: SkyRC (Stay away from NUPROL) * Deans (T-connectors) are much better than mini-tamiya in every way. XT are good too but more expensive and bigger so I still prefer Deans. * I don't have bags for batteries but I do charge on a baking tray. * Yep, 7.4v is best for standard AEG. 11.1v can work but puts a LOT of strain on the gearbox so expect shorter life and more catastrophic failures. Yes, get highest C and mAh you can fit in the space. Roughly explained: C Rating is how much power can be delivered in an instant. mAh is total power storage capacity. 1300mAh can last a day with moderate use, so two of them would be a good choice for a game day.
    2 points
  18. Obviously I never intentionally inferred that in my question ?
    2 points
  19. Even £150 new elsewhere: https://www.308-sniper.co.uk/aug-a2-aeg-black.html
    2 points
  20. Warrior LPC V2 in Ranger Green ? Also picked up a SRU helmet - bloody massive but pretty cool, the fans are surprisingly quiet and haven't experienced any fogging. Very sturdy, quite impressed
    2 points
  21. Lol, knowing tm it's actually going to be more reliable than the real steel (er plastic?) gun. EDIT: lol, just seen @Rogerborgsaid exactly the same thing before me. Doh, I'm thick as shit I am?
    2 points
  22. It's like some beautiful meme come true! Will this be the first airsoft gun that's more reliable and accurate than the real-plastic original?
    2 points
  23. Welcome Kevin, Yep, we sometimes talk about airsoft here ? Sorry to say but I don't think you'll have much luck buying from the forum tho ? Enjoy your time here anyway ?
    2 points
  24. A bit far from me. I'm all the way down on the south coast in Brighton, so the ones within "can go on the regular" distance are Worthing, the Boneyard, Driver Wood and Dogtag (though the latter two I wouldn't go anywhere near...) Worthing is old school, and since I started 17 years ago I like old school (we recently acquired a portaloo!). As I said, got my criticisms of the site like I hate their DMR rules and think we should play the whole site more often as there's a large area of the site that is neglected but is really fun to play in, but the general feel and the community are top notch and the staff are great. It's a totally different site for 6 months of the year too; Just be prepared to experience woodland CQB if you go in the late-spring through autumn as the foliage gets pretty thick
    2 points
  25. Asomodai's old AUG HC definitely has me covered for shortness. And hawtness It will be interesting to see how things develop in a brand new site where the internal layout will probably start off being "just plain wrong", a preponderance of cqb-inexperienced players and marshals... should make for some fun'n'games in the early days. (You know I've always liked that word... 'preponderance', so rarely have an opportunity to use it in a sentence) I get the need for a helmet and full face mask. But in my bid to be cheap-skate early doors, I'll stick to my lower face / ears mask and a stout baseball cap.
    2 points
  26. All kinds of NO, for all the reasons above. Also when you peen something the whole side isn't going to expand, you're going to move the edges out first. Hopefully this shitty diagram will explain: First you're gong to flatten it in the direction the hammer is hitting, actually *introducing extra play* to this dimension. Then you're going to spread the material out. If you're hitting it near the edge of the piece (which you probably will be because its so small) it's going to create these ridges, rather than push the whole edge out. Those ridges will present a much smaller surface area to act as a bearing so will wear rapidly. If the part is ali or mazak the act of hammering will probably work-harden it and make it (more) brittle. So after your experiment, you will have introduced more play in another dimension, reduced the gas efficiency of your pistol, and made the part you have modified more brittle and prone to failure. And after a few hundred shots those ridges will have worn away and you'll be back where you started anyway.
    2 points
  27. I put my phone under my pillow last night. When I woke up it was gone and there was a pound coin in it's place. I hate that fuckin Bluetooth fairy!
    1 point
  28. Printer is very nearly repaired/dialed-in. I'll have a go printing you one tomorrow whilst I'm working from home.
    1 point
  29. Need something a bit more professional …
    1 point
  30. 1 point
  31. The BB goes straight then veers to the left. I will give that a go ??????
    1 point
  32. It's an easy fix, you just need to rotate your bb's 90° degrees when loading. Simples?
    1 point
  33. Funny you should mention that….been running the G&G version of the grip for some time now….
    1 point
  34. I find that with a-lot of the short type SHS/Rocket motors. I have had to cut down the motor pinion a few mm. Had to do it on both my Real sword T97's
    1 point
  35. Hope to see you down there sometime! ?
    1 point
  36. Given that I keep losing those annoying motor disks that stock grips tend to rely on to interface between the adjustment screw and the motor, I've just taken to cutting octagonal(ish) replacements out of whatever pieces of stiff plastic I happen to have to hand. Section of fairly wide cable tie work well enough, and you could glue and stack them as high as you need. Also, wooden dowel remains a thing. I'm actually eyeing up a broken arrow shaft as I type this... I reckon the best thing you can do with a Specna Edge grip is to birl it into the bits box and fit just about anything else. The $9.99 aftermarket one I got from AliExpress has a lovely big adjustment screw that doesn't need any silly disk on the end of it. It does come with a rubber o-ring, but that's not actually necessary. If you needed to, you could drop a cylindrical dowel into the adjustment screw hole and it should be pretty stable.
    1 point
  37. I reckon that could actually work. It would also solve a lot of issues I've had in the past with motors being *slightly* too long for the grip, making motor height adjustment impossible (looking at you Specna Edge) and cramped/crimped/split wiring when stuffing the base plate on. I reckon a 3D printed inset could be fabricated easy enough.
    1 point
  38. well that depends which one you are wanting , a picture paints a thousand words ?
    1 point
  39. Bollox be fair the little shit was out to scam and got busted ! ?
    1 point
  40. RostokMcSpoons

    LiPo for Dummies

    I've had mixed fortunes with my Titan batteries... had a 7.4v that wouldn't charge, then would, then died. Titan replaced it. The the replacement died. They replaced it again. That died too, they replaced it (with me paying the difference) with an 11.1 nunchuck that was my preferred option at that point. That's been running like a champ. Touch wood. The battery deaths were either my fault (trying to use the battery in possibly faulty guns?) or because I left the battery in the gun with a Mosfet that drained the battery to the point of death after only a couple of days (which they say can't happen, but apparently can). So the batteries are great when they work, the customer service is great, but you still need to take them out of guns when they're not in use - they're not infallible. The alternative is to buy a few cheaper lipo's, keep them in a fire-proof box and treat them as 'consumables'
    1 point
  41. Because international postage is complicated, expensive and untrusted ?
    1 point
  42. Hi, ALL! ? A bit late this video, ran into technical isssues…. Didn’t stop me having a great time though! ? Doing the best with what I have, enjoy it for what it is! ??? ?GAMBLE?
    1 point
  43. Why....just...why? Of all the cool guns in the world - a frikken Taurus? Those crazy folks at Tokyo Marui.....SMH
    1 point
  44. What does a systema do that a short stroked Cyma and a mosfet doesn’t?
    1 point
  45. Shame many PTW owners (mainly) past and present cannot report the same. I'm not talking about the A&K knockoffs either, having to send a £1k+ Systema off to be 'Tackleberried' in the first place is just wrong. It's a dying platform, Systema don't give a fuck anymore, they have been too busy selling Type 89 PTWs to the JSDF and forgot the market that allowed them flourish in the first place. In the mean time the Airsoft world moved on.
    1 point
  46. That's pretty much the correct military way to store an AR 15. You can't safety an m4 unless the gun has been charged. You would normally make sure gun was safe, mag out, empty chamber etc etc, send the bolt forward and fire off the action in semi. Then store it that way.
    1 point
  47. Druid799

    Gun picture thread

    What’s ya poison ? ?
    1 point
  48. I'll save you a seat when I get there That's why I can't tell jokes in the USA. My sense of humour is so dark the police would shoot it on sight
    1 point
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