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Also, can’t remember if I actually shared a proper picture of the finished Battlecat with adv frame. The matched KC02 is a full auto 1.1J build and equally gaudy

In medieval times, people used to attach a lamp to a horse when riding at night. This is the earliest known form of saddle light navigation.

Been tweaking this loadout for the last few months, think I've got it exactly where I want it now but I'm going to have to play a game in it to know for sure. I've gone through a few rigs to get here...

Worth noting that whilst sure it aint pretty or "proper", and not something you'd expect a decent tech to do, ptfe tape does work for the cylinder head when done neatly. One of those bodges that does at least have some basis in reality for those who only care about the result and don't worry about the next guy who has to open the box. Generally with the cyma's air seal is what i'd gravitate towards as an area to be addressed. A nozzle with a sealing o ring is a good shout for any box that doesn't already have it.

The Ruger medallions and some wooden grips are going to a mate this week to be done to a standard I can’t achieve myself. In the meantime, I’m going to stick some Infinity medallions in there and see if anyone gets triggered.

Having tried a fair few, I picked up one of the Flimmuur/Brit Tac options recently and I think it's possibly the best one on the planet yet it's in the lower end of the pricey options. The Tegris/Tegris-type options are the way of the future and it's a real unicorn that such a product is actually made and easily obtainable in the UK, with more regular stock than Tactical-Kit can bring in r.e. American products.

probably because most "fully upgraded" guns are just standard guns with a spring change tbf, you ain't that bad, my old m4 only the outer barrel was original.....

That's really nice. tbh I kinda like the current color scheme. It has the color scheme of a vintage muzzle loader with a browned barrel & blued frame - with a reddot.. lol Throw some wood grips on there and it will become even more confusing?

Thanks for the tips! With the nozzle extended I can't get any compression in the cylinder. I ordered a new nozzle of the same length and a new cylinder head just to be safe. I noticed some wear on the nozzle of the cylinder head and a difference in external diameter from 5.2mm nearer the tip but not at the very end and 5.3mm in the middle. I'll report back once the new parts are installed.

Sorry it has taken me so long to get back to you. I forgot. I don't know if all Airsoft Masterpiece hi capa slides have the notch, but the Springfield Armory one certainly does.

Optics warehouse has 10% off with code QUEEN10. They sell vortex stuff there and they seem to be the cheapest for that even without the discount. Someone correct me if I'm wrong

I made an elastic loop to go around my rail at the receiver end to stop the sling hardware trashing it and clanking like a bag of spanners as I move around ? 50mm elastic and 2mins with a sewing machine ?

Esstac Kywi M4 naked, ML hop rubber, MWS Nozzle spring and Geoffs BBs. I got the Pistol Kywis a couple of weeks ago and were so impressed I have stumped up for the M4 tall versions for the back of my shooters belt. Hold the MWS gas mags really well but easy to get out and re-index. Will be testing the Geoffs against the other BBs I have to see how they perform and then testing the top 3 with the ML rubber.

In my head “fully upgraded” is synonymous with boneyard. Im just bored and stuck at the in-laws, retail therapy is my coping mechanism

3 more parts to go and it will actually be "fully upgraded"

Here’s something that’s a bit of a work in progress. Got a ring pull style selector on the way that’s more in-keeping with what people seem to use on the actual MK4. A friend is printing a much lower profile mount for the Viper that’ll take it much closer to bore. Since concept, the goal has gone from MK4 Lite to MK4 target, so when I get all the upper elements Cerakoted to match; I’ll get some accurate trades lasered back on. The Ruger medallions will end up set in some wooden grips for a less “tactical” and more “old school plinkster” look Next headache is getting it site legal. There’s a 180mm barrel in there that’s currently delivering 1.5j in full auto… Going to try either restricting the nozzle or shimming the rocket valve to bring that down to 1.1 on temp appropriate propellant or HPA at 95psi

I’ve ended up leaning in to my AAP build pretty hard. Hit go on: Airtac Glock>MP5 adaptor Vortex/docter fit RDS mount CCT hammer set, Knocker lock and sear CCT nozzle set DP hammer spring TM long mag (for when not using it on HPA) CTM wooden grips (to restain and recess some real Ruger grip medallions into) TTi ring pull style fire selector At this point, it’s just the trigger bar, inner frame and hop unit that’s actually from Action Army

Hey I happen to have a 40year old ginger step son. ( I'm not that keen on him though)?? Regards

Not airsoft but I did buy it !? serial numbered signature edition ‘Rambo first blood’ knife , it’s the first copy that’s been endorsed by Stallone so it’s also the most screen accurate one to be released so far . All I have to do know is think of an appropriate way to display it safely ??

Ready for Operation Boogaloo at Gunman Eversley next weekend, and this time the hop rubber ISN'T torn, so I can actually use it. Going to take it to Worthing this weekend to MAKE SURE it's working so I don't have a repeat of last time. Will shove a bunch of natural foliage in the scrim net on the day.

If ALL the compression parts inside the gearbox seal (so: piston head to cylinder, cylinder to cylinder head, cylinder head to nozzle in its fully extended position) then the issue is most likely around the hop up area. Check if your nozzle to hop rubber seal is good, install the gearbox with the nozzle at its resting position (fully extended) inside the gun, then shine a light down the muzzle and check if there is any light coming through the hop unit's feed tube. If there is, then your hop rubber is worn/torn or the nozzle is too short. Replace accordingly. If your nozzle doesn't have an o-ring, replace it regardless, make sure to measure its length with a caliper and buy accordingly. DO. NOT. USE. PTFE. TAPE. TO. SEAL. COMPRESSION. PARTS.

ANOTHER NGRS m4 that I didn’t need, but can’t pass up a bargain / man maths. Also some cosmetics for the Tac41

Given the shit spares situation, it's not as though you're worse off with rare models parts wise either.

A little footage from today's Jubilee game, to an appropriately patriotic soundtrack

Ran my Flecktarn last Saturday for a trial run for a MilSim in September. Worked pretty well. My Bingo 249 performed admirably as always. I love the shaded picture where I’m basically invisible haha.

I thought it was about time I put a load out on here, so here is my jungle kit (I think eversley counts as a jungle at the moment anyway...) Oh and belt kit is always the comfy option. ?

Right recently I was royally ripped off while buying a well mp7 of the Mong , when it arrived the condition was shit it was an ex two-tone which wasn’t mentioned in the ad and all in all just a shite gun , so I complained firmly but politely to the seller and received back nothing but attitude from then on any way long story short after paying £134’ish in total from buying it and then sending it back for a refund of only £110 (he said he wasn’t a retailer so wouldn’t reimburse me for fees as P&P as the gun did match the advert) tried getting the rest back through paypal but that was a dead end . Now on to the reason for the title , over the wknd a TM came up on the Mong seemed a bit too good to be true BUT after a bit of back and fourth with the seller the vibes where good so bit the bullet and bought it , arrived this am and all I can say is upon opening the box I genuinely did feel like the proverbial kid in a sweet shop ! With all the bits’n’bobs I got for an excellent price . So whole point of the ramble is to just let you all know their are still players selling kit that you don’t have to have some kind of previous ‘history’ with to not be continually worried your about to get stitched up ! here’s the ad for the well and the TM and a pic of the contents of the box , he found a couple of extra bits so chucked them in the box free of charge ! ?

Here are a few from SIERRA GOLF ONE AIRSOFT.

A couple from a few weekends back, big into the Platatac Tigers and black Ferrosi combo for outdoors at the moment.

Tried something new other than the usual 1911 stuff over the weekend and prepped my TM G18C frame before stippling. --------------------------------------------------------------------------- The initial idea behind this build was strictly "form follows function", where everything on it would serve some sort of utilitarian purpose. Eventually that approach skewed into adding all the tactical accoutrements that I see in the airsoft & real-steel community. The end-goal now is to have it so ridiculously Gucci'd-out that it looks like something out of a sci-fi film. Started by removing finger grooves. Used 120 grit sandpaper with a hard sanding block. Didn't bother going any higher than 120 since the frame will be stippled anyway. I don't have a dremel tool so taped off parts to minimize scratches from filing/sanding. The frame is a Guarder aftermarket part for a gen 3 G17. Thumb rests also removed Couldn't really take too many pics of the process as I was covered in black nylon fiber powder most of the time. Here's some of the modifications and the reasoning behind them. Finger grooves removed and undercut triggerguard: Rolled up some 120 grit on a hammer handle and hand sanded, adding a chamfering bevel on each side afterwards. Surprised how much of a difference this makes. You can grip so much higher on the gun almost to the point where your grip angle changes. If you had to do just one mod I would recommend the undercut. Some RS shops seem to polish this part to a mirror finish but I just left it gritty as it might cause blisters if too smooth. Thumb rest removal and mag release scallop. I've seen these mods on some of the higher end Glocks that come out of custom shops and such. However, unlike the RS frames, airsoft frames don't seem to have enough thickness in this area create a deep enough scallop for any meaningful difference. It does make the mag release a bit easier to reach without breaking my extra-medium sized grip, but wish I could cut out a little more. Will probably add a border when stippling to make the scallop stand out a bit more visually. Some RS examples of "scallops". Tried to copy the round style of the ATEI G19 (leftmost photo). Note how much deeper the scallop cut is. Airsoft frames don't have much material here. Internals and short-stroking: The build started off with making sure everything that reciprocates is as light and frictionless as possible, while anything that doesn't is as heavy as possible. All the lower parts and the hop up are steel/stainless, while the moving parts are more weight-conscious (7075 slide, lightweight BBU with polymer backplate, non-tilting outer barrel, etc.). While this makes the cycling speed akin to the plastic stock version, I really wanted something faster, something that would go brrrrrrt on regular 144a gas- so I short stroked it like a madman. Filed back the slide stop ~14mm to allow it to lock back while short stroked. Image below shows the difference in travel compared to stock. The only concern is the slide itself slightly thinner in this area than where the notch used to be. Fingers crossed it holds up; but if it doesn't I'll just short stroke it some more? Some ideas I'm playing with for the next steps. I really want to go all-in with the weight reduction concept and mill out some slide windows that agree with the general design language of the gun. It'll probably only save about 5 grams but would still look pretty good. They would also serve as forward cocking serrations since the selector switch doesn't really provide a comfortable grip to rack the slide. Which one do you prefer : (A) moderate and matching with the top port or (B) full length ports all the way to the chamber ? By the way, does anyone have any recommendations for stippling services? Looking for some place that does laser stippling or soldering. Not really confident that I'll be able to create clean borders doing it myself.

I bought a project gun. G&G M14 EBR. It's old and tatty but I love the look of the EBR. Going to rip it apart internally and totally rebuild.

made-to-order set of magwell-cut grips for a Springfield Pro build. Closest to the real thing I could get here in the UK. Should darken up nicely to a deep reddish brown like cocobolo once it gets a few coats of tung oil Real-steel reference I'm going for. Still waiting on the magwell to get here