Iceni

Didn't I go off on a mad rant about Titan batteries a bit ago, I'm going to like one of your posts in it rather than drag it all back up For the FET. Personally I like them to be as cheap as possible, I typically use the Xcortech XET304U or similar (Acemos). Simply because there dumb, and run forever. They will take up to 30V input. don't have any features at all, and work as just a contact protection fet. Supply of them seems a little dry ATM and the price has gone up you used to be able to get them for £10ish. If I wanted titan features but with a bit more robustness I might look at the MERF(£40) or warfet(£70), since it does a similar set of things to a titan whilst using standard trigger contacts. The Merf is really good value IMO. It's got pre-cocking (smart trigger), Lipo protection, self resetting fuse, and 3rnd burst. For the same price as the perun++. The other huge advantage with both units is they have is they have deans connectors both ends and a little trigger wire that also disconnects, So if you felt so inclined you could run 1 unit on multiple guns. https://gatee.eu/products/programmable/merf-32 My go to for a basic fet that also has AB has been the Gate Nano hard (£30). It's not a pre-cocking AB. Just a Dumb AB, but the package has a few nice features like a self resetting fuse and lipo cut-off that can be set to 7.4 and 11.1v. The gun I loan to others has one of these in it as I know they can't damage the battery through inexperience. The cut-off is a hard cut-off, The gun simply won't shoot. The price however is the kicker there, when they were release they were about £20 and good value for the features, but I feel now spending that extra £10 for the Merf that hasn't gone up in price in the same time period is far better value. https://gatee.eu/nanohard

Yup I meant flux... Getting carried away there. I do tend to edit a few times after posting as I'm good at making small mistakes like that! That flux is a hard brittle tree sap. It's melted into the tin and you can usually just crack it into fragments at the edges for making the liquid leaving the bulk of it solid. If you want a solid block and a broken block buy 2 they normally have multibuys on the same product.

I wouldn't bother with paste flux (solder mistake picked up on below). It's fine for some applications, but for electronics where you want to put the solder where it's needed without excess the liquid types are easier to use. Like I say make your own it's very cheap. One of those tins has enough flux in it to last many years for the casual user. https://www.amazon.co.uk/ROSIN-electronics-solder-COLOPHONY-Purity/dp/B077WF6QTS/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=colophony&qid=1643719514&sr=8-3 And a bottle of IPA (it's good for cleaning gearboxes as well so get a decent bottle). It's also good for cleaning the joint after soldering. https://www.amazon.co.uk/Trade-Chemicals-Isopropanol-Alcohol-99-99/dp/B08FCK988C/ref=sr_1_11?crid=M798NPBAHMRX&keywords=ipa+alcohol+99.9+isopropyl&qid=1643719574&sprefix=ipa+a%2Caps%2C69&sr=8-11 Tip tinner, really not needed. Dip in the colophony and just tin like normal. Brass sponge... £3 for 3 https://www.amazon.co.uk/Kleeneze®-KL072177EU-Antibacterial-Scourers-Utensils/dp/B0881STRPJ/ref=sr_1_3?crid=287VAQN3M02LN&keywords=brass+sponge&qid=1643719755&sprefix=brass+sponge%2Caps%2C70&sr=8-3

It's not just the tools, it's the whole system. I picked up a load of ex MOD gear a few years ago dirt cheap, Among it was a lovely roll of the really thick masking grade 3m kapton tape, and a few full rolls of Omega 63/37 with fast flow flux 2% flux. It blew my mind just how much better these products were than the standard store bought products. That solder is £40-60 for 500g's compared to £20 for some cheap lead free stuff from amazon. But holy shit it's a night and day difference. Equally flux. You can't solder without it. Well you can but it looks like shit - See above. A couple of cheap rosin blocks is a couple of £. A few dropper bottles (ask anyone you know who vapes), and some Isopropanol alcohol. Fill the bottles about 50% with IPA then break up one of the rosin pucks and put different amounts in the bottles... Will give you some really good flux for very cheap, and different grades for different work... Thin and low content for clean work, High content thicker for dirty work and wires. Ebay Colophony flux and you should see the little tins, It's a brittle tree sap. You can also just dip the tip in it. Smells divine.

I saw that one a long time ago, It's interesting don't you think that a man with all that testing gear doesn't come out and say anything about how dangerous they are. There's a good reason for that, The circuit used in this design of charger can't be patented, Only the enclosure and branding can be. The actual board design and layout is very similar across all brands of this style of charger, And I would not at all be surprised if they all came from the same factory. There are some minor differences like the protection fuse, but understand that's a fuse and not something you can reset. So as a feature to protect the circuit it's already redundant as you would need to solder a new component into the original to repair it. Whereas the clone will just go pop and probably blow a few mosfets. Either way without the knowledge to solder the units would both be dead. And if you look at the OP's example there is no fuse present on the Resistor arrangement. His actual intention to help people avoid a clone is only really noted in the comments, but the comments are actually quite interesting. Lot's of people saying they have a fake and didn't realise. A few saying they had fakes and they stopped working. And a few saying they have fakes that work perfectly fine. There's also a few comment where people have stated they have a clone that works fine and then get a comment by the author saying if it's working and in tolerance then there's no real reason to not be using it. It's a very mixed bag. What I'm saying is, a clone is bad for someone not willing or capable of checking the outputs. If however you can check those and are confident in checking, understanding any risk, and are willing to take those risks. Then a clone can do what you need it to do. I'm sure the original video idea was to get a clone and show just how bad they are, When that wasn't the case the video had a significantly different tone, spotting the differences, rather than outing a dangerous design.

lol big clives already done it.

There is a discharge mosfet on the board that should have a leak to ground that runs through the balance connector. It might be worth looking for that and seeing if it's blown and giving a dead short. I've no Idea where the mosfet is but I know it's there from a conversation I was having with a mate a few years ago.

When I first started I was warned in the same way. But then I actually started to look about and see how many clones there actually are in peoples kits. And just how few forum threads have been generated from dodgy clones. As a get out of jail card I don't see an issue with a clone. If you ever watch a strip down video the real differences are a slightly smaller PSU in the cloned B6AC a slightly different component selection and it might need calibrating. You calibrate them by holding the dec and start as you power on. Then you can compare the screen reading against a good multimeter and adjust the unit to match.

Cheap. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/133949242487?hash=item1f2fff3c77:g:Nh4AAOSw7L5hpZUG No offence, but Just buy a new one.

I looked into them and decided against. For me it boiled down to utility. Whilst I have 4 identical 7.4v's for the AUGS, they rarely have similar charge levels on them. So there's that extra step of taking each battery and putting it through a discharge cycle. Added to that when you come to charge the charger will be the limiting factor. 7.4v 2200mAh 5C charge capable. Regular 1C charge is 2.2A. Gang 4 up and you need 8.8A from a single charger, Perfectly possible for some of the better chargers. The charge will take 1 hour. - but it'll take longer if you can't do the 8.8A. It worked out for me to be more efficient just to have more chargers. A quad channel charger is about £130, 4 cloned B6AC £100, 4 real B6AC £140. With more chargers I can pick and choose how I want to charge. 11.1 on one, 7.4 on another, fast charge 2C on that one I need right now ect ect. And it gives me at least 1 spare charger for emergencies. The other huge advantage is I know each battery is been monitored. With a balance board the charger can't tell what's going on with any individual cell and may force charge into a problem cell. The biggest single issue with a quad charger is space management. If you were to say mix up the leads there's a chance you could cause problems. I know Kevin Talbot on youtube has done this by accident and set at least 1 battery on fire on video. If all the chargers are singles the chance of making a mistake is reduced.

Out of the box, I'd probably head towards the SCAR-H. It's the least likely to need any modification to run perfectly. The LCT G3 out of the box seems to be a little more hit and miss. I didn't get lucky with mine, It was externally very good but had a few gearbox niggles, and the Mid caps took a fair bit of time to work out. Others have given up on the midcaps, High caps are pretty flawless.

Because of the price of them I'd just buy a new one and throw that one in the bin. It's not worth the effort in attempting a repair that may cause other issues. An ebay clone is £20-25 delivered. Looking at the pins from left to right. (Red, Green, Yellow, BlacK) in that order. The common trace looks to be an earth. (K) Looks to me like the common trace does not connect to 1, 2, or 3, (left to right) (RGY) but does connect to 4. (K) That's backed up in this image of a JST pin out. So it you did want to attempt a repair I would Use a single bridge wire from the far right on the 5 pin (K), to the far right on the 4 pin (K), and remove all possible foil that could cause a short between pins 1-3 (RGY) on the 4 pin.

First thing I would check is the COL is moving. If you've had it in bits there's always the chance you nipped it up a little too much and now it's binding. Or the other common mistake, you forgot to put the little spring back on the COL. How exactly does the fault present itself? By that I mean how is the trigger functioning. Does it stick on full auto, Or does it stop as soon as you release the trigger. If it's sticking you might have the contact a little tight and it's holding the trigger dolly. If you've changed the trigger it may be riding a little high and keeping engaged on the dolly. The Dolly return spring might prefer to be in the other way round and it's keeping the dolly pressed to the trigger.

I don't even know where to start with this one. https://www.mayerantiques.com/product/danish-military-surplus-hensoldt-wetzlar-z24-x4-scope-with-g3-claw-mount/?v=79cba1185463 Hensoldt z24 scope with a TM mount.... €1100. The TM mount looks to be laser etched with HTK marks, but it's still a £40 mount. It's the poor mans version as well with the moulded rail upper rather than the Stanag upper. The scope looks to be a reasonable Z24 with either an original HTK mark or what I suspect is another laser etch. £500ish if it has the correct carry case and a correct claw mount. And was optically good... This one apparently needs a strip and clean. I'm a bit baffled by it all as the HTK marks both show the same number Nr.0356 on the sight and what is obviously the wrong mount. All I can assume is it's a fake mark. To put that into perspective I got a Hensoldt model 1 with the correct HK claw mount, Case, and an A.R.M.S #7 for £250 a couple of years ago.

I use this, it can be dissolved into isopropanol to make a liquid flux. If you are dissolving it you can make any strength you want. Clean up is also done with isopropanol after the solder is complete. Trying to clean it up with water is tedious as it's tree sap resin. On a good joint it'll often pool up well and can be flicked off with the tip of a scalpel. 60/40 is a good all rounder but 63/37 is true eutectic and doesn't have a mushy phase going almost directly from a liquid to a solid. 60/40 in contrast has a very short mushy phase that you have the be careful to observe on large parts that hold heat, When it's setting you have to make sure the parts can't move during this phase as it'll give you bad joints. The main difference in the 2 is 63/37 wets out a little better and gives a brighter joint. Both will eat copper based soldering tips on cheap irons. I use both solders, but on deans I tend to go for the 63/37 as the connectors have a lot of mass. Getting a big enough tip on the iron is also essential you need either enough power or enough heat and mass in the iron to be able to solder as quickly as possible without putting too much heat into the deans. If you don't get the power/heat/mass right you'll end up having to hold the tip for a long time, and the deans will begin to melt.

I can't comment about the drilling, I don't know the platform. But for the actual drilling if you needed to do it - M35 cobalt drill bits. You can get them in machine mart for about £25 for a set. Use the clutch on the drill rather than drill mode because they snap like carrots due to been a very hard steel and you need to keep the drill bit in the same orientation for the same reason ( no wiggling about). That been said they drill just about every common metal including 316 stainless. The set I have is used daily at work and they pay for themself if you can use them without snapping them. Far better than HSS or coated drills. https://www.machinemart.co.uk/p/cht383-19pce-cobalt-steel-drill-bit-se/

If you want to file the slide I can recommend the Tamiya 3000 grit sanding sponge. It's a fine abrasive on a tough but flexible sponge. You can work it in a lot of different ways round a slide to just knock off and polish up without worrying about removing or scuffing the surfaces. https://www.wonderlandmodels.com/products/tamiya-sanding-sponge-sheet-3000-grit/

I went the other way and got X-plane 11. With the high res Europe mesh pack installed it's superb. I've been flying ultralights and small planes in and about the places I've lived. Whilst it doesn't render everything perfectly, it does do a very good job of road layouts. Meaning it's more than possible to navigate by road.

How are you finding it? You went all quiet after buying it!

I absolutely love the fact all your main rifles are of older designs. G3A3 slim, M16A2, M4A1. Proper guns

That's not weathered. All you have there is pre-shade. Grey primer, White highlights. Clearcoat - satin finish. Mig streaker brushes - Green grey grime and Streaking dust. Base colour - mig XB518 mixed 20 drops transparator, 20 drops acrylic thinner, 15 drops paint. Airbrushed in 3 layers. A few spots of dark tracks on the darkest pre shade. Weathering comes after the detail pick, and decals.

Latest one. This is the base coat done. Just need to do the details and add decals. Takom T55 AM2B

G&G GR300 Pro Shorty. It's very old and none of the trades were etched (just screen printed). Trust me these are the magneseum cast lower and upper. Solid stock rather than the wire one, I have the wire one in a drawer, I just don't like the weight when the battery is in the front.