mightyjebus

yup. It's a great little gas rifle which can be modded into many various nice looking rifles. Out the box it works well and can handle up to Co2 without any modifications. recommended upgrades are: A+ hop rubber and longer inner barrel (the stock one is quite short) other things that can be done: replace the rear pin with a rubber version to reduce wear on the bolt. replace the ugly stock with a nice wooden version (you need to remove the rear tang for it to fit in most real steel stocks.)

try taking the 2 screws out of the hop unit that attach it to the outer barrel.

it's been a while since I stripped mine but if i remember correctly try this: remove the upper hand guard buy pushing up the lever on the gas block (bit with rear sight on it) the upper hand guard should lift up from the back and come free then loosen the allen grub screw where the metal part of the front hand guard is (where the sling loop is) slide it forward and the wooden hand guard can be removed. turn the AEG upside down and there should be a small allen grub holding the barrel to the gas block which was covered by the lower hand guard you just removed. this should allow the front end to be removed from the receiver. take off the pistol grip, remove the fake bolt handle including rod, spring etc which fits into the back of the gearbox (black button that holds the top cover on) unscrew the screw that holds the selector lever on and remove the selector lever and bits. gearbox should now pop out. I think thats how it goes but I've got a mixture of inokatsu, guarder and VFC disassemblies in my head and I can't get to my Guarder at the moment to check but I'm sure it's this.

fold up the rear sight and underneath you will find a hole. use an allen key to loosen the allen grub screw and the front end will come away from the receiver.

Everything is printed just in different materials. I use shapeways to print the parts and design the stuff using Sketchup with a .stl plugin. The silencer was 2 end parts made to fit inside a aluminum pipe. this is much cheaper than printing the whole thing and it's more durable. I usually use the plain white for prototypes as it's the cheapest material and shapeways are now printing in aluminum but it's expensive at the moment. My original ideas was to do the designs in 3d, have a master printed then create a mould and cast the parts in aluminum. I still need to do the last part when I get time.

Some of the parts I have made: AK12 Stock, front sight and flash hider Diemaco L119 front sight PVS21 mount and silencer

yup great gun. I used it at UCAP Wing last week and had a blast. Running it stock apart from some external mods is all you need for CQB. There is a possibility that the mags can swell after a while and out of the 3 mags I have there is a little swelling on 1 but it still functions and there are mods out there to make it work again if it goes completely knackered. There are also some CNC mag shells now which will not swell. They are slightly more pricy than the TM mags but you only need to buy them if you are really worried about the mags. I use either this gas or this gas and have no problems. There are internal parts that you can swap if you want and I have a load of them here but I'll only start replacing things if they go wrong. I bought the spares with the intention of upgrading but I found that the TM shottie working very well without anything needing doing to it. you get a nice clack when you chamber it and it doesn't sound too bad when it fires. You get the option for 3 or 6 BB's at once and I usually use the 3 option as I'd be swapping shells every 2 seconds on the 6 BB option. If you buy one here's my recommendations: buy plenty of shells (the cheap clone ones work in it) get a front sling loop/RIS rail. G&P make one for the TM and you'll need it for a sling and flash light if you play at dark sites. leave a little gas in the mag after a day out. This will prolong the o rings. A company called blackcat do replacement springs/o rings etc for the TM 870 and are cheap so if you are worried about problems buy some just in case. And lastly here's how my 2 are set up (seocnd bottom on the left and the breacher)

As well as owning a few AEG's I spend a bit of time upgrading/changing/modding some of them. I'm currently working on these 3. These are the original STAR L85 AEG's with the polycarbonate gearbox shells. There is nothing wrong with these shells but I decided to replace them with the metal versions. The L86 has been left as stock externally, the AFV has had the newer style flash hider and a LLM added. The L85A2 has had a RIS, ACOG, MRD and wing mount added along with a tam grip pod and rail covers.

Not really..I live in an old nuclear bunker

i've been in the sun too long

possibly but since I used to be 1 it souldn't be too bad

260ish

completely stock. And since it's raining outside and I have nothing to do here's a couple more pictures.

The secret is..... a paint brush. Before taking the picture use a paint brush to give it a quick clean as it gets into all the edges and removes the dirt etc.

the best way to check is to take the inner barrel and hop unit out and look down the barrel as you turn the hop wheel. you should see the hop rubber appear as a bump and get bigger until you can adjust the hop any more. this will tell you if the hop is able to be applied when it's in the AEG. If you adjust the hop and the bump doesn't appear there is a good chance the nub is missing.

it sounds like a hop problem. with a FPS of 280 you should still be getting 40 meters. adjust the hop so that the bb starts to swing upwards at the end of it's flight. If you put maximum hop on and this still doesn't happen the you have a problem with the hop unit or hop rubber/nub. be careful adjusting the hop to max as it can jam bb's inside the barrel. if this happens stop shooting and use a cleaning rod to clear the trapped bb. loosen off the hop for it to stop happening. If the hop unit is workng properly then it looks to be an airseal problem. this can be caused by a few parts: cracked gearbox shell misaligned hop unit torn hop rubber poor compression in the cylinder If it's a cracked gearbox - get a new shell make sure the hop unit sits flush onto the front of the gearbox replace the hop rubber if it's torn did you replace the nozzle with the correct type?

latest toys

actually you can mod the existing gearbox to make it EBB. It's not simple and involves cutting a slot in the gearbox so that you can connect a rod to the piston and it will shorten the gearbox life but it's still doable.

you think the Amoebas are uglier than these?

If you think the gold AK is bad I'll post up a few pictures of really bad AEG's

I can see where the confusion is.... simply because I have loads of AEG's with mini tamiya's and I haven't got around to replacing them all to deans so it's easier to keep the LIPO's as MT and use deans to MT extensions for the time being. The torch/Peq is this one ELEMENT PEQ16a

finished the work on the MP5. Also managed to get the RIS off the front of my TM 417 and replaced it with a 9 inch VFC one. Need to get a 1.5 inch barrel extension to finish it off. And lastly got around to sorting out this VFC HK416 to be more "SEAL" like. Just got to decide if I want to spray and stencil it.

The LSW uses the same calibre as the Minimi and could shoot accurately out to 600 meters due to the longer barrel. It's biggest failing, as found in Afghan and Iraq, was the magazine only held 30 rounds. For a support weapon this was found to be useless. The original idea was to stop the infantryman fielding a LSW from using too much ammunition. Turns out, funnily enough, that when you need to use a support weapon you need lots of ammunition. The LSW could fire very accurate small bursts, just like its predecessor the LMG [bren], but both suffered from small magazines. Both were never meant to be used as a full time support weapon and would be supported by the GPMY but it was realised in the Falklands then Iraq and Afghanistan that something with a bigger ammunition capacity and lighter that the GPMY was needed. It took nearly 40 years for the military to buy, off the shelf, the minimi. I wouldn't be surprised to see the minimi replaced eventually with the 7.62 version if NATO decides to stick with the 5.56 calibre (there's a possibility that a new 6 or 6.8mm round could be used in the future). It was used as an stop gap DMR but the 5.56 calibre isn't a very good round for DMR use plus the Susat is bollocks for that type of work. Like the Sig226 the L129 was bought as an urgent operationally requirement and I think it will probably be replaced at some point in the future to something British made (god help us). As for the original OP then consider a Gates WarFET if you decide to build a DMR. It's a programmable MOSFET that has the pre-cocking feature. I have one here and it's very good. The pre-cocking isn't that good on full auto but since you want a DMR then fitting one of these would be a good idea. If you are unsure of pre-cocking then I'll explain. When you use pre-cocking the mosfet primes the cylinder ready to fire. it pulls the piston back and as soon as you touch the trigger it fires and resets the piston in the back position ready to fire again. The benefit of this is instant shots, like a bolt action sniper rifle.

alright dave...best ongoing joke ever

I think he means my MP5. The only original parts are the inner barrel, hop and gearbox.