EDcase

Oh yes, those are nice. Haven't seen those before. They're slightly bigger than the cheapo Deans connectors but nice grip surface.

You should get some heat shrink tubing Great for covering and protecting joints. Also good to keep two or more wires together.

I bought a pistol from him. Think he's a trader of some kind. Selling at Red Alert site in Newbury. Not 100% happy with it because price was a bit high and it turned out to have a missing rear sight and right safety. (He knocked off £5 but its going to cost me £15 for the sight) I'm not going to bother trying to get money back though as it shoots OK (to the left). I'm hoping it'll be OK once I have a tinker and clean-up

Yep, if wiggling cables makes the vibration occur then there's a dodgy connection somewhere. The problem is finding it. If you'll be doing more soldering its worth getting some soldering flux. It helps the solder flow better and makes is so much easier to get a good join.

Yeah, PB are good at sorting problems in my experience. I've had a couple of occasions when a rif had to be returned due to damage and recently an error in the sale information that it was metal but turned out to be plastic. The first time (a couple of years ago) they arranged courier pickup from my house but more recently they sent a code for the courier return and I had to arrange it myself then took it to a drop-off point.

The idea is to weather it and keep it working ?

Exactly, its a clear indicator of someone who didn't win that battle ?

We do regard two-tones as a sign of impatience by the owner. ?

Yep, as @concretesnailsaid, something went wrong with the prep of the bare metal so the first coat didn't adhere properly. You'll have to take it all off then rough up the surface with some heavy steel wool (you can get at the pound shop for cleaning pots & pans) or around 400 grit sandpaper. Then degrease the whole thing with Isopropyl alcohol or kitchen degreaser. A primer coat will ensure good results because that's what its for but you could try a thin layer of paint straight away and then test it to see if it stays. Oh and don't use Nuprol paint. Use car spray paints (Enamel)

I wear almost all my airsoft toys to look used and more authentic (without going too far to hurt resale value too much) Having worked in a film studio props department obviously helped with the practice and guidance but youtube can provide a lot of information now. You just need something to practice on but its hard to really mess things up completely. As @rocketdogbertsaid, look for plenty of reference to know what to aim for. As a starting point, you can use steel wool (the ones from the pound shop for cleaning pots etc) Rub on metal parts to remove paint in areas that would naturally get worn. Start gently doing figure '8' all over and continue until satisfied with the result. (It will take about an hour to do a rifle depending how worn you want it and how much metal there is) Don't use sand-paper as its very difficult to be even. For wood. You can do a quick/easy method that's reversible or go full on to really make it look authentic. The easy one is to spray a THIN coat of matt black all over it and then rub most of it off with the same steel wool as before. Very gently in figure '8's again. (circles are not even) You should probably check youtube for the more involved method which involves staining and giving the wood some bashing as well. This is my CYMA M14 with plastic furniture. Light wear on the metal and the darkening effect on the 'wood'

Both are very good reasons. If you don't want to lose your mags its worth putting some colour and maybe a bit of sharpie on them. If you're so worried about camo then use red tape as that colour doesn't show up at distance but will help if its lying on the ground. Your initials in sharpie will help identification in case someone finds it.

Yep, they have this notice now: Shipping to the UK should resume within several weeks. We apologize for the inconvenience. Please email us at shop@taiwangun.com and we will let you know once it is back ON. ? We still have to see how cost effective it is...

Cool thanks

Can you specify where you got the torch? Cheers

To reduce movement you could try a sniper or DMR role so you can stay back and get overwatch on the situation... Guiding the youngsters into battle ?

Hey don't worry about it Gasman. Play as long as you enjoy it. No one is going to have a problem with the 'wiser' generation at a game day ?

We just have to buy enough to get over £135 ?

Looks great ? Now remember... Don't use it ?

More research needed to check mag compatibility. If OP doesn't know the make or have one to compare its going to be tough.

I have an all metal green gas WELL MAC11 (G12)

So you didn't get a magazine with it?

Yep

NOOOOOOOOOoooooooooooo............

JG do some pretty good MP5 models for decent prices and CYMA have metal uppers which are a bit more (if you can find one) Obviously something got chewed up so best not to use it until you figure out where the plastic came from and where the slippage is. Assuming you've already checked the gears have no wear and all the teeth are good on the piston, I would check the bushings and motor pinion gear. Are you using 11.1v Li-Po by any chance?

Could be part of the hop rubber? The first concern is why 5 BBs got stuck in the barrel. Hop set too high? You'll have to open it up at some point. Plenty of videos on YT to guide you. Its not very hard to get into a GBBR