Airsoft-Ed

Hmm, I understand your dilemma but unfortunately not. Basically to draw the winner I'm going to run a random number generator, with a limit set for the number of shares the post has had. Whatever the generator comes out with, I'll count that many names down the list and then check if that person has also liked the pages listed in the giveaway instructions. If they have, boom, winner. If they haven't, I'll repeat the process until someone ticks all the boxes. If you share something privately, it won't show for me so I can't count it. Tell you what, if you add me as a friend and find a way to set some custom privacy settings so it shows on your wall but only me and you can see it, that ought to work?

Giving a pistol away on my YouTube channel, you'll need Facebook to take part in the competition though. Details here: https://www.facebook.com/Bullet4MyEnemyYouTube/photos/a.459349840807125.1073741828.434223969986379/831755896899849/?type=1&theater

I go there too, there's also Bawtry Paintball and Laser Fields, airsoft games get run out of there by Brit-Tac Airsoft. Also not forgetting Skirmish Airsoft's CQB sites in Rotherham and Sheffield, as well as Tac House Spartan in Chesterfield.

That adaptor is for the real rail set. The Madbull rail set's adaptor doesn't require a new gasblock, just the back part. Search for Madbull rail adaptor, otherwise it won't work. Or swap your Madbull rail for a real one, or a Hornbill one, since that's a direct clone of the real thing, rather than one adapted for airsoft.

Mine is BulletForMyEnemy but it's worth noting the "ll" part is a pair of capitalised "ii"s because the name was in use =[ l'm on the PS4 too. So got no VOlP.

It's pretty simple, yeah. Field strip it to get to the bolt, undo the nozzle guides on the bolt and push the pin out holding the nozzle return spring. Once the nozzle's out, push the pin through to separate it into two halves. Drop the valve and spring out of the front half, replace with NPAS. Reassemble. Only tricky bit is lining the pins up with the nozzle return spring.

£15 NPAS valves are fine. l use them in both my WE GBBRs. No issues here in over a year.

Screw the metal nozzles they're a total waste of money. Come with their own set of issues that require you to upgrade other parts. Plastic nozzles are ten a penny and are perfectly fine as well as not requiring any modification to fit or function properly.

An NPAS costs about £15...

Makes me badly want an AK again =[

Dat necro post doe

It's worth mentioning that when filling gas mags, you ought to always have the bottle upside down. The gas is liquid in the can, so to get the liquid into the mag you need to flip the can over to pour it in. Also worth mentioning WE mags are designed for pistols with metal slides, as such they have higher flow valves. This means more gas passes through them over the same space of time compared to the TM valves, so you might see an increase in both fps and felt recoil from the WE mag. Since the WE mag valves are high flow, the pressure they're under when opening and closing is higher, and the WE pistols have much stronger hammer springs as a result, so when you say that the mag sometimes vents gas everywhere and you have to remove it to save the gas, it could be that the TM Glock's hammer spring isn't strong enough to depress the valve on the mag sufficiently every so often. It'll drop and hit the valve, but it might not always have enough oomph to open it all the way - just enough to let gas escape, but not open far enough for the pressure to build and cycle the action - so you get it venting until you remove it. Just a theory. If it happens with the TM mags too then ignore me.

I use a pair of Contours. Looking to swap out to a Hero4 and a Mobius action cam though.

He should really have a mass amount of those made and sell them for like £5 each.

ZeroIn's rules fuck me off so much...

A good tip for playing in the wind is to tilt your gun into the wind direction slightly. Because hop lifts your shots up, if you cant it off centre slightly, it'll send your shots off to that side. The more you tilt, the more they go off to one side. So you can use it to fight against the wind, allowing you to shoot dead straight even in strong wind. You can also use it to bend shots around corners when there's no wind... Bit of a touchy subject though, as it can be considered blind firing. As others have said though, heavier ammo will travel further at a more constant speed, carry its energy better, helping it defeat light obstacles more effectively, and also being more resistant to wind because of the greater mass.

I opened mine up about as often as my gas one, I'd switch the fps setting all the time, constantly in and out of the gearbox swapping out parts. If anything, it's the one gun you can get away with opening often, because it's designed specifically with the ease of doing so in mind. You just have to be aware of all the electrical contact points, as they can be bent and cause poor conductivity, or circuit breaks. But they're easy fixes. I used the same set of motor connectors the whole time I had the gun, too.

Nope, nothing needed at all, and left alone one could chug on for a looooonnnnnggggg time.

The ICS L85s are rock solid, the Patrol Base techs are just weirdos... The ICS L85 is the single easiest, most user friendly gun to disassembly and take apart ever. it's one of the easiest to fix, it's one of the easiest to get parts for, it's one of the most robustly built. It's got very good out of the box performance, as well as having space for larger batteries (a rare trait for L85s) and comes with two high cap mags. Best L85 on the market imo. Best bang for buck out of all of them. I had the ICS for 2 years, modded it to fuck, and eventually sold it to get a WE gas one for the added realism. The WE performs worse in every way and comes with a lot of disadvantages, using a gas rifle is a handicap, plain and simple. It's less consistent, less reliable, doesn't work as well through the colder months, in fact it's straight up useless in anything less than about 4 degrees C and it costs a shit load more because the mags are about £35 each. I'd recommend the AEG over the GBB. Having experience on the real thing won't help you, in fact it'll probably give you unrealistic expectations, the airsoft versions aren't comparable in anything short of control manipulation. For gas guns you need to have spare money, patience, and an existing knowledge of airsoft guns to help get them set up correctly. Or friends who can help you with it. When I first started, the first gun I bought was gas, I had no clue what I was doing and I fucked it up. Never had a good game with it and spent around £1k trying to make it work right, all because of my stubbornness and lack of experience. I learned the hard way lol, don't take my advice lightly.

R hop does add range, as well as accuracy. The patch is longer and hugs the BB a lot more evenly, so its in contact with the shot for longer, and due to the curved nature of the contact piece, it keeps the shot centred far better so the performance is far more repeatable. Standard hop acts as a brake on one side of the BB. The more hop you apply, the more the top of the BB gets slowed down. The bottom of the BB doesn't get slowed down because there's no brake acting on it, so more hop = faster spin. Obviously if you spin too fast the hop sends the shots upwards, and spin too slow and the shots go down. R hop allows you to impart the same level of spin without applying as much of a brake to the shot, because the contact patch is longer. This means that the spin lasts for longer, and since the spin lasts longer, the BB can fight gravity for longer = more range. Then the added accuracy comes from the centralising effect of the curve of the contact patch.

Sometimes if you're too close then the chrono can be confused slightly because it picks up on the spits of gas that pass through it along with the BB. If you can hold it slightly further back then you should have fewer issues. About 10" or so is the ideal distance.

Hmm, I see what you mean. But fps limits are set because of the joules they relate to, not just because the shots travel at certain speeds. Conversion charts exist to tell you what fps you should be doing, and therefore, need to aim for if your gun suffers badly from joule creep. So, bearing in mind that fps limits are set for the joules, if you chrono on a heavier weight, to prevent joule creep being a factor, and you chrono joule-safe. Then that means you'll be joule safe on every weight below that, and because being joule safe means you're under the limit, you can't possibly end up over the limit by changing back to lighter ammo, because the joule energy is only ever going to go down from lightening the shot. You might end up very close to the fps limits on the lighter weights, but it should be impossible to be over them. And if you are over them, then you can just lower yourself below them. Sites could chrono with the heaviest weight available to ensure a person is joule safe, and then just to be on the safe side, chrono them again on their chosen, lighter ammo, just to be sure they don't somehow go over the fps limit... Bit of a long winded way of doing things, but when the entire point of chronoing is for safety, not dotting all the Is and crossing all the Ts seems like it kinda makes the whole process pointless. As mentioned in other comments, there aren't a lot of people using guns that this really relates to, so having to chrono them a handful of times to be sure isn't going to hold the day up all that much, and often when setting an NPAS it'll take a couple of trips to the chrono anyway because screwing a valve in and out isn't an exact science and getting it right on the first try is pretty rare.

The trust issues can be avoided by making everyone chrono on the heaviest weight there is, instead of the lightest. Joule creep will be exemplified the most by the heaviest ammo, so by forcing everyone to use that for the chrono, means their muzzle energy will only go down if they have a gun that over volumes the barrel. If their gun doesn't over volume the barrel then it won't make a difference one way or the other, but it will ensure everyone's within the limit.

Ever since I started playing airsoft, and got involved in the whole game and science behind the guns and all this and that, to a deep enough level to understand it all, I have noticed joule creep. But it's only as of late that I've started to see it earn a name, and a gathering of people who actually seem to understand what it is. I first noticed it when I had an ICS L85 AEG, it was fitted with a 6.01mm tightbore barrel, 509mm long and fired .20s at about 360fps. I noticed that when I loaded heavier ammo, my fps wouldn't drop by as much as the conversion charts said it would. If you look at the equation used to work out muzzle energy, which involves the figures pertaining to ammo weight and speed, you'll notice that there's no mention of the length of the barrel, the bore width, or even the amount of pressure applied to the shot. Because it's just an equation, it isn't designed to be used in relation to airsoft guns, but it can be applied to them. As a result there are myriad variables it doesn't take into account, and this means that the conversion charts can be wildly inaccurate. The conversion charts are simply that. They convert the muzzle energy into different weight and fps amounts. It's like an on paper reference to using scales. Adding more of one thing here will balance out this thing here. The reality of it isn't so clear cut. Back when I first noticed it, the conversion charts said that loading .25s ought to reduce my fps by around 40, but I was seeing it drop by about 20. At the time I didn't realise that this would mean my muzzle energy was increasing, but it effectively meant that I was firing hot by around 20fps once I'd loaded the .25s. I was just counting my lucky stars that I was able to get away with having higher fps than the charts said I ought to be. However, now I've owned gas guns for a year, and I've seen it happen a lot more extremely, I've come to realise that the ignorance of not understanding it could lead to someone getting hurt someday, so my aim with this is to try and help bring attention to joule creep, and bring attention to... not how to counter it, but how to play with it safely. First, I'll try to better explain what it is and give an example of it. Joule creep is the name given to muzzle energy which increases when the gun is loaded with a heavier weight of ammo. The name, joule "creep" is given because the energy, measured in joules "creeps" up without it necessarily looking as though the muzzle energy has increased. It is common knowledge that adding heavier ammo reduces your fps, and many make the assumption that this drop in fps is a counter balancing effect which results in the muzzle energy remaining the same. You load .2s and chrono at 350, you load that same gun with .25s, you chrono at 315, muzzle energy remains the same. Right? Well, yes, sometimes. Joule creep is caused by guns sending more pressure down the barrel than the barrel can contain. Let's set up a hypothetical scenario: Gun A has a barrel which is long enough to contain 100% of the pressure that the mechanism sends down it in order to power the shot. So its cubic, volumetric capacity is large enough for all the pressure being sent down it to fit inside it. If you fire a .2g BB through gun A, all the pressure will be used on the .2, the .2 will leave the barrel and there'll be no excess air leaving the barrel once the BB's free of it. Adding heavier BBs to Gun A will see the conversion charts ringing true. Gun B has a barrel which can't contain all the pressure sent down it to fire the shot. It's only big enough to contain about 50% of what gets sent through it to fire the shot. So when loaded with a .2 it'll chrono at 350fps, but when the .2 is free of the barrel, it'll be followed out of the muzzle by 50% of wasted air. This is a gun that will see a lot of joule creep, because now when you add a heavier shot, due to it taking longer to accelerate out of the barrel, it is present in the barrel for longer, which means some of that "spare" 50% can be applied to the shot, and because more pressure is building up behind the shot, it is actually increasing the power of it. A .25 might use 60% of the air, a .30 75% a .46 95%... These are all just made up numbers to demonstrate the point, but can you see how a gun could gain power, that's muzzle energy, measured in joules. Kinetic, impact energy, that physically increases through the use of heavier ammo, all because the gun sends more power than required down the barrel. Joule creep is therefore significantly more prevalent in gas guns than AEGs. This is because AEGs use pistons and cylinders. Cylinders can only contain x amount of air, and they can be ported to reduce the amount of air they send down the barrel. Generally a factory AEG will be fitted with a barrel and cylinder combo that more or less match the barrel and cylinder's volumetric capacity, which will prevent joule creep from happening. Gas guns on the other hand, send significantly more gas down the barrel than required, simply by nature of the mechanism. It isn't something that can be reduced without it impacting the other performance characteristics of the gun. The longer and tighter a barrel is in gas gun, the worse the effects of joule creep will be. A longer barrel means there's more enclosed space for the gas to expand in, and the tighter the barrel means there's less space around the BB for the gas to escape. So I said I'd give some real world examples. A few months ago I set up my gas L85 to chrono at just under 370fps on .20s, because that's my regular site's limit. My L85 at the time was fitted with a 509mm long, by 6.01 wide tight bore barrel. Once set I changed to .28s which are what I generally run through it, and decided to chrono it again, just to gauge how much the fps dropped by. To my amazement, it didn't drop. I got more or less the same reading. In the ballpark of 370fps on .28s... I thought I might've got my ammo or my mags confused, so I double checked, but nope... According to conversion charts, a gun that chronos at 370fps on a .2 ought to drop to 312fps when loaded with .28s... But as I touched on above, this is because the equation assumes the same amount of pressure is being used to fire every weight of shot, but in gas guns, the heavier the shot, the more power gets applied to it. So My L85 therefore sends so much more pressure than it needs to down the barrel, that my fps remained the same because all the excess was making up for the drop caused by the weight increase. So if I'd gone to field this, I would have been firing hot by around 60fps, which is a joule increase of about .40. Today I thought I'd run the same test through my gas SCAR, so I chrono'd it on .20s, an average of 5 shots gave me a mean of 331fps. Loaded it up with .3s and did the same again, mean average of 290fps. According to conversion charts, 331fps on .20s ought to drop to 279fps, so that shows an increase in power of about 11fps from adding heavier ammo. Pretty significantly heavier too. My SCAR barrel is tiny too, I think it's 10" and it's not even a tight bore. That's a joule increase of only .08 or so, so it's pretty damn insignificant, but it proves the point that longer and tighter barrels, as per my L85 can take much greater advantage of it. Imagine if someone had a gas sniper, they set it up to fire at 500fps on .2s, it was fitted with a very long, tight as tight can be tightbore, and then they switched to .46s to play with... Ouch. So to be safe with your gas guns, ensure you look up the conversion charts, find the site's fps limits before you go, and work out what the limit will be on the weight you intend to use. Then when it comes to chrono, use the weight you intend to use, and set your fps to the limit you worked out. Conversion charts might not work with regard to the fps drop from adding weight being correct, but they are still correct in that x fps = x joules. So as long as you're setting your fps using the ammo weight you intend to use, you'll be safely within the limits. If you've read and understood everything I've just written out, or if you already knew about it, then help me spread the word. There are sites that ban the use of gas rifles because they don't understand the science behind the muzzle energy, or simply can't be bothered to deal with the need for people to chrono on the weight they say they're chrono-ing on. There are sites that force people to chrono using .2g BBs. This is ignorance, and it's potentially unsafe. Given any opportunity joule creep needs explaining in a way that people can understand and pass on, because the more people know, the less silly rules and regulations they'll be stopping us from using the guns that we love, for the hobby we enjoy.