Samurai

The normal TM gearboxes have weaker internals as the current average GBs. They work forever if you use them as they are but if you want to upgrade then there are weak parts. The sector gear is pot metal, if I remember correctly the bushings are plastic, the nozzle has no O ring, plastic spring guide, etc. The GB shell is strong enough for about 350-380 fps setups. Their recoil rifles have different and high quality internals, but those aren't v2.

Definiately not metal. The body is flimsy plastic. The pot metal parts like the gearbox are not very strong. I would say £100 with the red dot if everything works fine is an okay price for it.

Strange. I have an mtp/brown one from britishmilitarysurplus. My size is XL and I got the L from them - the XL was huuuge - it fits fine except that the sleeves are a tiny bit too long.

One should never fire the gun the stock folded. That feature is for transportation. You don't see any real word units shooting guns stock folded, not even low recoil guns. With the gun floating in the air you are not able to shoot accurately. If the stock in your shoulder gives a reference point you can build muscle memory to point and shoot instinctively, and that's the fastest.

Don't drill, that's irreversible. Also no nozzle here.

DE HK33

Yup. I just found it. Cutting one and a half coils - or what's the proper English word for it - gives you about 370 fps. The guy also said, that you can use a weaker GBB's hammer spring, they should be the same width.

Weaker spring will give less fps.

You can remove the padding.

Are you sure you didn't reverse polarity?

You shouldn't get a spark when connecting the motor. Without the trigger pulled, there must be no power at the motor. You must have a short circuit.

I got the email on my way home from the 3rd game. So it is really up to the site.

Don't get the JG in my opinion. Get the pdw because the stock allows you shoot much more accurate. If it is a secondary, then get the mp5k, but for primary weapon, you'll need the stability of a stock.

Are you sure when you are closing the top half, the tappet goes in the right place? The only time I fixed an ICS was years ago so I don't remember if you can close it in a way that the tappet is in front of the sector gear's "thing" (insert the proper English word here) that moves the tappet.

Sorry I don't know if there are any not cheap ones. I had a cheap one, it broke, and it also impeded my hearing that side so I went to find a solution that works better for me and my sweaty ears.

Usually this happens when the hopup rubber is protruding in the way of the BBs. Now how that happens on an unused gun is a mistery. Maybe the rubber dried up completely and hardened. Take out the barrel, remove the hopup rubber, give the rubber a good spray of silicone, wash it with soap very-very thoroughly, then dry it. Check the hopup unit for any crap stuck in it. Reassemble.

Cheap airsoft bowman headsets are pretty crap. The wire breaks very easily in just a few uses and you can't fix it. Go for the bit more expensive ones.

Baofeng 888s if on a budget. Baofeng uv-5r if not from ebay or radiogearpro or 409shop. For the 888s you need a programming cable. For the uv5-r you don't need it, but is useful.

Then this must be sportline assembly:

It must go into checked luggage. I tried to bring some g36 mags in the hand luggage, but they didn't let me. Dam.

Get the TM, don't touch, or get the Cyma and downgrade IMO. Both are good value for their price. If you would find a way to hold them in your hand, that would decide.

I would open that gearbox and replace the gears. They will break sooner or later. Also, the piston head likes to crack too sometimes. The first thing to change if you are after range - not maximum range but the range where you can hit someone - are BBs. Use the best quality and heavy BBs. For aegs 0.28 or 0.30. Use the heaviest one your gun can handle. Fix the hopup unit and the barrel in place. You can put a rubber patch on the hopup unit to push it into the gearbox. This fixes most of that crappy m4 hopup's problem, except if it likes to loose the setting. If it is then change it to pro-win or a copy of that. Then find a rubber that your barrel, nozzle, and hopup likes. There is no best one here. One can work for someone, and doesn't in an other setup. There are good ones though you can choose from. Maple leaf, madbull, modify, etc.

The new cymas are clones of G&G if I remember correctly, and they have metal body - or at least what's metal on the real steel that's metal on it too. Even the plastic parts are better on it than the TM's (correct me if I'm wrong) ABS. On the downside, the cyma is heavy as a brick. I don't know how heavy this TM is, I only had the old version of it. Internals are more precise in the TM, but the cyma will also work forever, even with the factory - too strong - spring.

Then I do suggest a backpack you can take off yourself. Everyone I know who have tried the molle attached backpack regretted it later. I remember vaguely that there is a way a normal backpack can work with the vest's shoulder straps but I don't remember any details.

Use rubbing alcohol instead of silicone. Silicone attracts dust and leave a slippery surface on the rubber - this comes off with a couple dozen of shots though. So use rubbing alcohol on the piece of towel on the cleaning rod. I read some guy said that you shouldn't use rubbing alcohol because it washes out the grease from the gears. I swear to god, he poured it down the barrel.