proffrink

Basically agreed with Sitting Duck here. There are quite a few variables. A cheaper longer barrel will be far worse than a shorter, better finished barrel that's for sure. Thing is, your hop, ammo and the bore size come into play (the hop in particular) when looking at range, and that's why I go with a wider bore because I believe it to interfere less with the backspin as the BB travels down the barrel. More so than with other bits of airsoft gear you do get what you pay for when it comes to buying an aftermarket barrel. Prometheus/Laylax, PDI, EdGI, ORGA are all excellent barrels from my experience and many others, but like Sitting Duck says, you're not necessarily constrained by the length of your barrel at all. It depends what you want to do, but most lengths and diameters can be made to perform just as well as one another by changing one of the other variables.

The light seems to come from about 2/3 down the tracer so you should be alright. The 'trip' for it is about half way down so again you should be alright.

Aren't they getting the new generation of Warrior gear? That's what all these sales have been about AFAIK.

I'll have to give them a shot (ehehe), thanks.

Yeh, TM hop windows are basically universal amongst AEGs at this point so just pick the size that you want. Certainly the G&G will accept TM-spec barrels. Remember you will need to pay VAT and Parcelforce's stupid service charge. Not duty though as that only kicks in over £150 or something(?). So you're looking at £8 + 20% of your item ontop of what you pay, but PDI barrels are basically the best out there so it's worth it.

That's why you use this guide: http://www.airsoft-forums.co.uk/index.php/topic/148-how-to-attach-pictures/ Kind of agree with the above now: This is just becoming a tad too cunty for this site. Back to toy guns maybe?

That's novel. Have you used them before? I'd been keen to know how it goes - I know the bioshot ones have been known to expand very rapidly.

Oh wow. Where from? Bioshot?

Also, PDI are doing free shipping for a while! http://www.x-fire.org/etop/01.html

ur l8 m8

Yeh. Technically it's where the bit that contacts the BB ends (just like a real barrel and bullet), but realistically people just refer to the whole tapered edge as 'the crown'. Probably not the best example as this barrel is basically crowned twice (the whole front being recessed slightly), but hey you get the idea. The firearms definition is very clear that the crown is where the bore ends though.

Short answer: Don't. Sniper rifles are made to certain tolerances and upgrading just one part of the whole propulsion system is going to have a knock-on effect. The sears and spring guide need upgrading too if you're putting a new spring in. Really I'd say don't worry all that much. Your hop and barrel has far more to do with range (as discussed in this thread) with a stock gun than the speed at which it leaves the barrel. Get those right first and then work on upgrading your power source. You'll get good range out of 450fps so long as everything is set up correctly.

Crowing is basically finishing the end of the barrel. On airsoft barrels this is generally a tapered edge that can start as far as 15mm before the end of the barrel. It won't mess with the airflow that way and screw up your hop. The crown is there to stop the actual barrel from getting damaged - on a flat edge this would be easy, but as the contact edge is recessed into the barrel by a few millimetres it's not going to get beaten up. Specifically the crown is actually where the inner barrel (where it's contacting the BB) ends and the tapering starts. Also, a lot of people that cut their barrels do it horribly with something like a hacksaw and leave burrs and rough edges that are going to mess with that airflow as well.

I dunno. Check our his blog entries and other tweets. That boy 'aint right.

This 100 times. A lot of the time the response will be 'it's what the last guy told me I should do'.

Not just a uniform it'd seem. Twitter Link Redacted - Moderator November 12. Edit Bipolar as well apparently. I kinda feel sorry for the chap now.

Na. He made a post back in July as Scarathe linked. He knew what reaction he'd get - it's just a troll.

Good time to switch to a reputable brand like Guarder Powerful.

Hm, alright. This is GCSE-level physics though man - there are unfortunately no opinions. Beyond hop I don't see how you'd do this. Suppressor maybe as discussed in the other thread? This is less about purposeful cheating and more about unconscious Joule creep, but I think you got that

How about 0.85g Full Metal Jacket? http://begadishop.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=21_427_46&products_id=7629

You need to go back and read what I've typed as I think wires are significantly crossed here. You are not at all disagreeing with me - I am, as I said, not talking about 'crono cheating'. We are talking about how to stop Joule creep. I'm also not sure where Newtons third law comes into this?

Sure, with a .20g it might not, but when you're shooting that same muzzle energy with heavier weights their energy degrades much slower. This is why a lot of people thing those using heavier weights are cheating because it carries that energy for longer and hits harder at longer ranges than a lighter BB that had the same energy leaving the barrel. There are a few nuances here it would be unfair to ask people to understand, but one thing is for sure: Joule creep does exist and the current way of crono'ing doesn't allow for it. If I were shooting 400fps instead of 350fps would you be annoyed? I sure would. Any half-decent eye protection is rated much higher that anything we shoot at it, but fair point. Thing is, measuring muzzle energy rather than fps goes a way to mitigating hot guns better than anything we have now. There is the issue of energy conservation from heavier weights, but you're never going to solve that through any way other than banning heavy weights (which some CQB sites do). Edit This might help to understand why people use heavier weights of BB: tl;dr, at 1.49J (still above site limits but just as an example figure), 0.43g BBs hold their energy for far longer than the rest so will go further. Ignore yellow as it's an 8mm BB so air resistance screws it over.

You don't crono at 350fps - that's the point you're missing. You crono at 1.14J by calculating the muzzle energy from the speed and weight. 350fps with a .20g BB is around 1.14J. Want to use .30g? No problem, you use the chart and find what speed a .30g should be going if it's to have a muzzle energy of 1.14J; that's around 285fps (see below). Edits for clarity (I hope) Sniper rifle? Ok, if we crono 500fps on .20g we get 2.32J. Because of Joule creep, the liklihood that will stay at 2.32J when you switch to your .38g 'sniping BBs' is slim. You could now be shooting above 2.32J, and that's more than is allowed. This is because (and this is simplified to the max) air or propane or whatever propellant you're using has more time to transfer energy to the BB as it takes longer to travel down the barrel. So what if we crono'd your gun with the .38g BBs you want to use? Well, we need to aim for 2.32J; about 360-365fps. Now you're going to always be shooting at 2.32J - no creep. If there's any creep at all from switching down on weights then it'll be negative, so you might end up shooting at 2.20J or less.

Sacrificed his first born son I'd imagine.

Even if you don't break the seal, water has a use-by date because of the photographic degradation of the bottle releases trace amounts of plastic into the water. I see what you mean though. As Sp00n says, no one can make a biodegradable dense enough for above .30s right now. The Green Devil guy/distributor Graham confirmed that when I asked him this year.